Soil and Environmental Factors influencing home foundations

Soil and Environmental Factors influencing home foundations

* The Role of Professional Inspections in Early Detection

* Expansive soils and their impact on residential foundations.


Alright, let's talk about soil, specifically the kind that can wreak havoc on your house's foundation: expansive soil. Advanced monitoring tools improve the accuracy of foundation repair assessments foundation repair expert service garage door. I mean, think about it. We build these homes, these solid structures, and then we plop them down on something that, well, basically shifts and breathes with the weather. That "something" is often soil, and when we're talking about expansive soils, we're talking about a potential headache.

These soils, mostly clays, have a nasty habit of changing volume depending on how much water they're holding. Dry spell? They shrink. Rainy season? They swell. It's like they're doing yoga under your house, and your concrete slab is caught in downward dog. This constant movement puts immense pressure on the foundation. Cracks start to appear, doors and windows stick, and suddenly your perfectly level floors feel like a funhouse attraction.

The impact on residential foundations is pretty significant. We're talking about structural damage, which can be incredibly costly to repair. It's not just cosmetic cracks; we're talking about the integrity of the entire structure. And it's not always obvious right away. The damage can be slow and insidious, gradually weakening the foundation over years.

Now, you might be thinking, "Okay, so I just avoid building on expansive soils, right?" Easier said than done. They're quite common in many regions. That's where proper soil testing and engineering come in. Knowing what kind of soil you're dealing with before you build is crucial. There are mitigation techniques, like soil stabilization, deep foundations, and proper drainage, that can help minimize the impact of expansive soils.

Ultimately, understanding the potential problems posed by expansive soils is key to protecting your investment. It's a reminder that even something as seemingly solid as a house is vulnerable to the invisible forces at play beneath our feet. So, do your research, get your soil tested, and build smart. Your foundation will thank you for it.

* Effects of soil moisture content and drainage on foundation integrity.


Okay, let's talk about how thirsty (or waterlogged) your soil is, and how that impacts the very thing holding up your house: the foundation. We're diving into soil moisture content and drainage – two crucial environmental factors that can either be your foundation's best friends or its worst enemies.

Think of your soil like a sponge. It can hold a certain amount of water, right? That's the moisture content. Too little water, and the soil shrinks, hardens, and can pull away from your foundation. This creates gaps and voids, leaving the foundation unsupported and vulnerable to settling and cracking. Imagine trying to balance a table on uneven ground – not a pretty picture. This is especially true in areas with expansive clay soils, which are notorious for dramatically changing volume with moisture fluctuations. Drought conditions can be particularly damaging in these regions.

Now, what about too much water? That's where drainage comes into play. If water isn't draining properly away from your foundation, the soil becomes saturated. This saturated soil can exert hydrostatic pressure against the foundation walls, pushing them inward. It's like being squeezed in a giant, watery hug – not the kind you want for your concrete. Poor drainage can also lead to soil erosion, weakening the supporting soil around the foundation. Furthermore, constantly damp soil creates a breeding ground for issues like mold and mildew, which can further degrade the foundation materials over time.

Good drainage is absolutely key. This means ensuring that rainwater and runoff are directed away from the house with proper grading, gutters, and downspouts. Think about it: you want the water to flow *away* from your foundation, not towards it.

Ultimately, understanding and managing soil moisture content and drainage is essential for maintaining the long-term integrity of your home's foundation. Neglecting these factors can lead to costly repairs and even structural issues. So, pay attention to your soil – it's telling you a story about the health of your home. A little proactive care can save you a lot of headaches (and money) down the road.

* The role of temperature fluctuations and frost heave in foundation damage.


Okay, so let's talk about how the good old weather, specifically temperature swings and frost heave, can really mess with your home's foundation. Think of it like this: your foundation is sitting there, doing its job, being all solid and supportive. But the ground around it is a dynamic environment, and temperature's a big player in that game.

When temperatures fluctuate, the soil expands and contracts. It's a subtle dance, but over time, this constant movement can stress the foundation. Different soil types react differently, too. Clay soils, for example, are notorious for holding water and expanding significantly when they get wet, then shrinking when they dry out. That expanding and shrinking can put pressure on the foundation walls, leading to cracks, shifts, and all sorts of problems.

Then we've got frost heave. This is where things get *really* interesting, and potentially damaging. If you live in a colder climate where the ground freezes, the water in the soil turns to ice. Now, ice takes up more space than water. So, as the soil freezes, it expands. But it doesn't expand evenly. Ice lenses, like little layers of ice, can form in the soil. These lenses grow over time, pushing the soil upwards. This uneven upward pressure, called frost heave, can lift parts of your foundation while other parts stay put. This differential movement is a recipe for structural disaster. Cracks are practically inevitable, and in severe cases, you might even see walls bowing or floors sloping.

The severity of the damage depends on a few factors: how cold it gets, how much moisture is in the soil, the type of soil, and how well your foundation was initially constructed. A poorly drained site is going to be much more susceptible to frost heave, for instance.

Basically, temperature fluctuations and frost heave are silent enemies of your foundation. Understanding how these factors work is the first step in protecting your home. Proper site drainage, good foundation design, and using frost-resistant materials are all key strategies for minimizing the risks. Ignoring them? Well, that's just asking for trouble down the road.

* Vegetation (trees, shrubs) proximity and their influence on soil moisture and foundation health.


Okay, so you're thinking about buying a house, or maybe you already own one, and you're wondering about the soil around the foundation. Smart move! See, the earth beneath our feet isn't just a static platform; it's a dynamic system, and what lives on top of it – specifically, vegetation like trees and shrubs – can really mess with the moisture levels, and that, in turn, can impact your foundation.

Think of it like this: trees are thirsty giants. They're constantly sucking up water from the soil. Now, if you've got a big ol' oak tree planted close to your foundation, especially in a clay-rich soil (which expands and contracts a lot with moisture changes), you're essentially creating a moisture vacuum. During dry spells, that tree is going to pull water from the soil near your foundation, causing it to shrink. That shrinking can lead to foundation settlement, cracks, and all sorts of expensive headaches.

On the flip side, too much moisture is also bad news. Overwatering your lawn around the foundation, poor drainage, or even just a dense shrubbery acting like a sponge and holding moisture against the foundation walls can lead to hydrostatic pressure. This pressure can force water through the concrete, leading to leaks, mold, and even structural damage over time.

The type of vegetation matters too. Shallow-rooted shrubs might not be as aggressive as a deep-rooted tree, but a lot of small shrubs right against the foundation can still trap moisture and contribute to problems. The distance of the vegetation from the foundation is a key factor. A large tree far away is less likely to cause issues than a small tree planted right next to your house.

Ultimately, it's about balance. You want to manage the vegetation around your home to maintain relatively consistent soil moisture levels. Good drainage, proper landscaping techniques (like grading the soil away from the foundation), and careful plant selection are all crucial for protecting your foundation from the hidden dangers lurking beneath the surface. Ignoring this aspect of your property can lead to some seriously costly repairs down the line. So, pay attention to those trees and shrubs – they're impacting your foundation more than you might think!

* Identifying soil and environmental factors as part of foundation inspections.


Okay, so you're thinking about buying a house, or maybe you already own one, and you're wondering about the foundation. Smart move. It's not just about the concrete slab or the crawl space walls. It's about what's underneath it all, the unseen world of soil and the environment around it. That's where identifying soil and environmental factors during a foundation inspection comes in.

Think of it like this: your foundation is a ship, and the soil is the sea. If the sea is calm, all's well. But what if the sea is constantly shifting, swelling, and shrinking? Your ship's going to have a rough time. Different soils behave differently. Clay, for instance, loves to soak up water, expanding and pushing against your foundation. Then, when it dries out, it shrinks, leaving gaps and causing the foundation to settle unevenly. Sandy soil, on the other hand, drains well but can erode over time, especially if you have poor drainage around your house.

And it's not just the type of soil. The environment plays a huge role. Is your house on a slope? That means gravity is constantly trying to pull the soil downhill, potentially weakening your foundation. Do you live in an area with heavy rainfall? That water needs somewhere to go, and if your drainage isn't up to par, it can pool around your foundation, causing hydrostatic pressure. Tree roots can also be sneaky culprits, sucking moisture out of the soil and causing it to shrink, or even physically pushing against the foundation walls.

A good foundation inspection doesn't just look for cracks and settling. It looks at the bigger picture. It considers the soil composition, the slope of the land, the drainage around the house, and even the types of plants growing nearby. By identifying these soil and environmental factors, inspectors can get a better understanding of the risks your foundation faces and recommend appropriate solutions, whether it's improving drainage, installing root barriers, or reinforcing the foundation itself. Ignoring these factors is like sailing into a storm without checking the weather forecast. You might get lucky, but you're much better off knowing what you're up against.

* Remediation strategies for soil-related foundation problems.


Okay, so your dream home is showing cracks? Yikes. More often than not, that sinking (sometimes literally) feeling comes from the ground beneath – the soil. Soil and environmental factors can seriously mess with your foundation, leading to all sorts of expensive headaches. But don't despair! There are ways to fix it. We're talking remediation strategies, the superheroes of the foundation world.

Think of it this way: your foundation is a boat, and the soil is the water it floats on. If the water level changes, the boat gets stressed. Similarly, if the soil swells, shrinks, or erodes, your foundation feels the pressure. Let's say you've got expansive clay soil that absorbs water like crazy. During heavy rains, it expands, pushing against your foundation walls. Then, in a drought, it shrinks, leaving gaps and causing your foundation to settle unevenly. One common fix is soil stabilization. This involves adding materials like lime or cement to the soil to make it less prone to volume changes. It's kind of like giving the water a consistent level, so the boat doesn't rock.

Another culprit is poor drainage. Water pooling around your foundation is a disaster waiting to happen. It can weaken the soil, leading to erosion and instability. Here, drainage solutions are key. We're talking French drains, grading the land to slope away from the house, and ensuring your gutters are working properly. Think of it as redirecting the floodwaters away from your vulnerable boat.

Sometimes, the problem isn't the soil itself, but what's in it. Acidic soil can corrode concrete foundations over time. In these cases, you might need to neutralize the soil with lime or other alkaline materials. It's like adding a protective coating to your boat to shield it from corrosive seawater.

And then there's the granddaddy of foundation fixes: underpinning. This involves strengthening the existing foundation by extending it deeper into more stable soil. Imagine adding extra supports to your boat's hull to keep it afloat even in rough seas. Underpinning is a more intensive and expensive solution, but it can be necessary for severely damaged foundations.

Ultimately, the best remediation strategy depends on the specific soil conditions and the extent of the foundation damage. A qualified geotechnical engineer or foundation specialist is your best bet for diagnosing the problem and recommending the right course of action. They'll analyze the soil, assess the damage, and design a solution to keep your home safe and sound. So, while finding cracks in your foundation is never fun, remember that there are solutions out there, ready to tackle those soil-related foundation foes!

* The importance of preventative measures and proper landscaping.


Okay, so we're talking about soil and the environment messing with our house foundations, right? It's easy to think of a foundation as this big, solid thing that just sits there, but honestly, it's in a constant battle with the ground around it. And a huge part of winning that battle comes down to being proactive – preventative measures and smart landscaping are absolutely key.

Think about it. Soil expands and contracts. Water seeps in. Tree roots grow like crazy. All of these things can put immense pressure on your foundation. If you just ignore them, you're basically waiting for cracks to appear, walls to bow, and your whole house to start shifting. Not good.

That's where preventative measures come in. Things like making sure you have proper drainage – gutters that actually direct water away from your house, a slight slope in your yard so water doesn't pool near the foundation. These are simple things that can make a huge difference. Waterproofing your foundation during construction is another big one. It's an upfront cost, sure, but it can save you a fortune in repairs down the line.

And then there's landscaping. This isn't just about making your yard look pretty (though that's a bonus!). It's about controlling the environment around your foundation. Planting trees too close? Their roots will search out moisture, potentially damaging underground pipes and putting pressure on the foundation itself. Certain plants retain more water than others, which can increase soil moisture content and exacerbate expansion and contraction issues. Choosing the right plants, and placing them strategically, can help manage soil moisture and minimize root intrusion.

Basically, good landscaping and proactive measures are like giving your foundation a fighting chance. You're not just building a house; you're creating an ecosystem around it. Understanding how soil and environmental factors interact with your foundation, and taking steps to mitigate potential problems, is crucial for long-term structural integrity and, frankly, peace of mind. It's about being a responsible homeowner and protecting your investment.



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For other uses, see Ceiling (disambiguation).
Various examples of ornate ceilings

A ceiling /ˈsiːlɪŋ/ is an overhead interior roof that covers the upper limits of a room. It is not generally considered a structural element, but a finished surface concealing the underside of the roof structure or the floor of a story above. Ceilings can be decorated to taste, and there are many examples of frescoes and artwork on ceilings, especially within religious buildings. A ceiling can also be the upper limit of a tunnel.

The most common type of ceiling is the dropped ceiling,[citation needed] which is suspended from structural elements above. Panels of drywall are fastened either directly to the ceiling joists or to a few layers of moisture-proof plywood which are then attached to the joists. Pipework or ducts can be run in the gap above the ceiling, and insulation and fireproofing material can be placed here. Alternatively, ceilings may be spray painted instead, leaving the pipework and ducts exposed but painted, and using spray foam.

A subset of the dropped ceiling is the suspended ceiling, wherein a network of aluminum struts, as opposed to drywall, are attached to the joists, forming a series of rectangular spaces. Individual pieces of cardboard are then placed inside the bottom of those spaces so that the outer side of the cardboard, interspersed with aluminum rails, is seen as the ceiling from below. This makes it relatively easy to repair the pipes and insulation behind the ceiling, since all that is necessary is to lift off the cardboard, rather than digging through the drywall and then replacing it.

Other types of ceiling include the cathedral ceiling, the concave or barrel-shaped ceiling, the stretched ceiling and the coffered ceiling. Coving often links the ceiling to the surrounding walls. Ceilings can play a part in reducing fire hazard, and a system is available for rating the fire resistance of dropped ceilings.

Types

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California tract home with an open-beam ceiling, 1960

Ceilings are classified according to their appearance or construction. A cathedral ceiling is any tall ceiling area similar to those in a church. A dropped ceiling is one in which the finished surface is constructed anywhere from a few inches or centimeters to several feet or a few meters below the structure above it. This may be done for aesthetic purposes, such as achieving a desirable ceiling height; or practical purposes such as acoustic damping or providing a space for HVAC or piping. An inverse of this would be a raised floor. A concave or barrel-shaped ceiling is curved or rounded upward, usually for visual or acoustical value, while a coffered ceiling is divided into a grid of recessed square or octagonal panels, also called a "lacunar ceiling". A cove ceiling uses a curved plaster transition between wall and ceiling; it is named for cove molding, a molding with a concave curve.[1] A stretched ceiling (or stretch ceiling) uses a number of individual panels using material such as PVC fixed to a perimeter rail.[2]

Elements

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Ceilings have frequently been decorated with fresco painting, mosaic tiles and other surface treatments. While hard to execute (at least in place) a decorated ceiling has the advantage that it is largely protected from damage by fingers and dust. In the past, however, this was more than compensated for by the damage from smoke from candles or a fireplace. Many historic buildings have celebrated ceilings. Perhaps the most famous is the Sistine Chapel ceiling by Michelangelo.

Ceiling height, particularly in the case of low ceilings, may have psychological impacts. [3]

Fire-resistance rated ceilings

[edit]

The most common ceiling that contributes to fire-resistance ratings in commercial and residential construction is the dropped ceiling. In the case of a dropped ceiling, the rating is achieved by the entire system, which is both the structure above, from which the ceilings is suspended, which could be a concrete floor or a timber floor, as well as the suspension mechanism and, finally the lowest membrane or dropped ceiling. Between the structure that the dropped ceiling is suspended from and the dropped membrane, such as a T-bar ceiling or a layer of drywall, there is often some room for mechanical and electrical piping, wiring and ducting to run.

An independent ceiling, however, can be constructed such that it has a stand-alone fire-resistance rating. Such systems must be tested without the benefit of being suspended from a slab above in order to prove that the resulting system is capable of holding itself up. This type of ceiling would be installed to protect items above from fire.

  • An unrestrained non-loadbearing ceiling undergoing a 4-hour fire test. Deflection is measured off the I-beam.
    An unrestrained non-loadbearing ceiling undergoing a 4-hour fire test. Deflection is measured off the I-beam.
  • Durasteel ceiling after successful fire test, being raised from the furnace and readied for an optional 45PSI (3.1 bar) hose-stream test.
    Durasteel ceiling after successful fire test, being raised from the furnace and readied for an optional 45PSI (3.1 bar) hose-stream test.
[edit]
  • Gothic ceiling in the Sainte-Chapelle, Paris, 1243-1248, by Pierre de Montreuil[4]
    Gothic ceiling in the Sainte-Chapelle, Paris, 1243-1248, by Pierre de Montreuil[4]
  • Renaissance ceiling of the Henry II staircase in the Louvre Palace, Paris, by Étienne Carmoy, Raymond Bidollet, Jean Chrestien and François Lheureux, 1553[5]
    Renaissance ceiling of the Henry II staircase in the Louvre Palace, Paris, by Étienne Carmoy, Raymond Bidollet, Jean Chrestien and François Lheureux, 1553[5]
  • Renaissance ceiling of the king's bedroom in the Louvre Palace, by Francisque Scibecq de Carpi, 1556[6]
    Renaissance ceiling of the king's bedroom in the Louvre Palace, by Francisque Scibecq de Carpi, 1556[6]
  • Baroque ceiling of the Salle des Saisons in the Louvre Palace, by Giovanni Francesco Romanelli, Michel Anguier and Pietro Sasso, mid 17th century[7]
    Baroque ceiling of the Salle des Saisons in the Louvre Palace, by Giovanni Francesco Romanelli, Michel Anguier and Pietro Sasso, mid 17th century[7]
  • Neoclassical ceiling of the Salle Duchâtel in the Louvre Palace, with The Triumph of French Painting. Apotheosis of Poussin, Le Sueur and Le Brun in the centre, by Charles Meynier, 1822, and ceilings panels with medallion portraits of French painters, 1828-1833[8]
    Neoclassical ceiling of the Salle Duchâtel in the Louvre Palace, with The Triumph of French Painting. Apotheosis of Poussin, Le Sueur and Le Brun in the centre, by Charles Meynier, 1822, and ceilings panels with medallion portraits of French painters, 1828-1833[8]
  • Neoclassical ceiling of the Mollien staircase in the Louvre Palace, designed by Hector Lefuel in 1857 and painted by Charles Louis Müller in 1868-1870[9]
    Neoclassical ceiling of the Mollien staircase in the Louvre Palace, designed by Hector Lefuel in 1857 and painted by Charles Louis Müller in 1868-1870[9]
  • Moorish Revival ceiling in the Nicolae T. Filitti/Nae Filitis House (Calea DorobanÈ›ilor no. 18), Bucharest, Romania, de Ernest Doneaud, c.1910[10]
    Moorish Revival ceiling in the Nicolae T. Filitti/Nae Filitis House (Calea Dorobanților no. 18), Bucharest, Romania, de Ernest Doneaud, c.1910[10]
  • Demonstrative reconstruction of a Roman suspended ceiling in an Imperial palace of circa AD 306 at Trier, Italy
    Demonstrative reconstruction of a Roman suspended ceiling in an Imperial palace of circa AD 306 at Trier, Italy
  • Part of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City in Rome, showing the ceiling in relation to the other frescoes
    Part of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City in Rome, showing the ceiling in relation to the other frescoes
  • Ceiling of the Villa Schutzenberger from Strasbourg, France, decorated with Art Nouveau ornaments
    Ceiling of the Villa Schutzenberger from Strasbourg, France, decorated with Art Nouveau ornaments
  • Painted ceiling in Liège, Belgium
    Painted ceiling in Liège, Belgium
  • Traditional Chinese ceiling of Dayuan Renshou Temple at Taoyuan, Taiwan
    Traditional Chinese ceiling of Dayuan Renshou Temple at Taoyuan, Taiwan
  • Dropped ceiling
    Dropped ceiling
  • Wooden beam ceiling
    Wooden beam ceiling

See also

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  • Beam ceiling
  • Hammerbeam roof
  • Hollow-core slab
  • Moulding (decorative)
  • Popcorn ceiling
  • Scottish Renaissance painted ceilings
  • Tin ceiling
  • Passive fire protection
  • Fire test
  • Hy-Rib

References

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  1. ^ "Casa de las Ratas 2/2/2003". Archived from the original on September 29, 2008. Retrieved September 14, 2008.
  2. ^ Corky Binggeli (2011). Interior Graphic Standards: Student Edition. John Wiley & Sons. p. 220. ISBN 978-1-118-09935-3.
  3. ^ Meyers-Levy, Joan; Zhu, Rui (Juliet) (August 2007). "The Influence of Ceiling Height: The Effect of Priming on the Type of Processing That People Use". Journal of Consumer Research. 34 (2): 174–186. doi:10.1086/519146. JSTOR 10.1086/519146. S2CID 16607244.
  4. ^ Melvin, Jeremy (2006). …isme Să ÎnÈ›elegem Stilurile Arhitecturale (in Romanian). Enciclopedia RAO. p. 39. ISBN 973-717-075-X.
  5. ^ Bresc-Bautier, Geneviève (2008). The Louvre, a Tale of a Palace. Musée du Louvre Éditions. p. 26. ISBN 978-2-7572-0177-0.
  6. ^ Bresc-Bautier, Geneviève (2008). The Louvre, a Tale of a Palace. Musée du Louvre Éditions. p. 30. ISBN 978-2-7572-0177-0.
  7. ^ Bresc-Bautier, Geneviève (2008). The Louvre, a Tale of a Palace. Musée du Louvre Éditions. p. 55. ISBN 978-2-7572-0177-0.
  8. ^ Bresc-Bautier, Geneviève (2008). The Louvre, a Tale of a Palace. Musée du Louvre Éditions. p. 106. ISBN 978-2-7572-0177-0.
  9. ^ Bresc-Bautier, Geneviève (2008). The Louvre, a Tale of a Palace. Musée du Louvre Éditions. p. 138. ISBN 978-2-7572-0177-0.
  10. ^ Marinache, Oana (2015). Ernest Donaud - visul liniei (in Romanian). Editura Istoria Artei. p. 79. ISBN 978-606-94042-8-7.
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Look up ceiling in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
  • Media related to Ceilings at Wikimedia Commons
  • "Ceiling" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 5 (11th ed.). 1911.
  • "Ceiling" . New International Encyclopedia. 1904.
  • Merriam-Webster ceiling definition

 

 

 

Interior of part of a damaged home in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina
Family photographs damaged by flooding
A smaller and more minor water spot caused by rainwater leaking through a roof

Water damage describes various possible losses caused by water intruding where it will enable attack of a material or system by destructive processes such as rotting of wood, mold growth, bacteria growth, rusting of steel, swelling of composite woods, de-laminating of materials such as plywood, short-circuiting of electrical devices, etc.

The damage may be imperceptibly slow and minor such as water spots that could eventually mar a surface, or it may be instantaneous and catastrophic such as burst pipes and flooding. However fast it occurs, water damage is a major contributor to loss of property.

An insurance policy may or may not cover the costs associated with water damage and the process of water damage restoration. While a common cause of residential water damage is often the failure of a sump pump, many homeowner's insurance policies do not cover the associated costs without an addendum which adds to the monthly premium of the policy. Often the verbiage of this addendum is similar to "Sewer and Drain Coverage".

In the United States, those individuals who are affected by wide-scale flooding may have the ability to apply for government and FEMA grants through the Individual Assistance program.[1] On a larger level, businesses, cities, and communities can apply to the FEMA Public Assistance program for funds to assist after a large flood. For example, the city of Fond du Lac Wisconsin received $1.2 million FEMA grant after flooding in June 2008. The program allows the city to purchase the water damaged properties, demolish the structures, and turn the former land into public green space.[citation needed]

Causes

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Water damage can originate by different sources such as a broken dishwasher hose, a washing machine overflow, a dishwasher leakage, broken/leaking pipes, flood waters, groundwater seepage, building envelope failures (leaking roof, windows, doors, siding, etc.) and clogged toilets. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, 13.7% of all water used in the home today can be attributed to plumbing leaks.[2] On average that is approximately 10,000 gallons of water per year wasted by leaks for each US home. A tiny, 1/8-inch crack in a pipe can release up to 250 gallons of water a day.[3] According to Claims Magazine in August 2000, broken water pipes ranked second to hurricanes in terms of both the number of homes damaged and the amount of claims (on average $50,000 per insurance claim[citation needed]) costs in the US.[4] Experts suggest that homeowners inspect and replace worn pipe fittings and hose connections to all household appliances that use water at least once a year. This includes washing machines, dishwashers, kitchen sinks, and bathroom lavatories, refrigerator icemakers, water softeners, and humidifiers. A few US companies offer whole-house leak protection systems utilizing flow-based technologies. A number of insurance companies offer policyholders reduced rates for installing a whole-house leak protection system.

As far as insurance coverage is concerned, damage caused by surface water intrusion to the dwelling is considered flood damage and is normally excluded from coverage under traditional homeowners' insurance. Surface water is water that enters the dwelling from the surface of the ground because of inundation or insufficient drainage and causes loss to the dwelling. Coverage for surface water intrusion[5] to the dwelling would usually require a separate flood insurance policy.

Categories

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There are three basic categories of water damage, based on the level of contamination.

Category 1 Water - Refers to a source of water that does not pose substantial threat to humans and classified as "clean water". Examples are broken water supply lines, tub or sink overflows or appliance malfunctions that involves water supply lines.

Category 2 Water - Refers to a source of water that contains a significant degree of chemical, biological or physical contaminants and causes discomfort or sickness when consumed or even exposed to. Known as "grey water". This type carries microorganisms and nutrients of micro-organisms. Examples are toilet bowls with urine (no feces), sump pump failures, seepage due to hydrostatic failure and water discharge from dishwashers or washing machines.

Category 3 Water - Known as "black water" and is grossly unsanitary. This water contains unsanitary agents, harmful bacteria and fungi, causing severe discomfort or sickness. Type 3 category are contaminated water sources that affect the indoor environment. This category includes water sources from sewage, seawater, rising water from rivers or streams, storm surge, ground surface water or standing water. Category 2 Water or Grey Water that is not promptly removed from the structure and or have remained stagnant may be re classified as Category 3 Water. Toilet back flows that originates from beyond the toilet trap is considered black water contamination regardless of visible content or color.[6]

Classes

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Class of water damage is determined by the probable rate of evaporation based on the type of materials affected, or wet, in the room or space that was flooded. Determining the class of water damage is an important first step, and will determine the amount and type of equipment utilized to dry-down the structure.[7]

Class 1 - Slow Rate of Evaporation. Affects only a portion of a room. Materials have a low permeance/porosity. Minimum moisture is absorbed by the materials. **IICRC s500 2016 update adds that class 1 be indicated when <5% of the total square footage of a room (ceiling+walls+floor) are affected **

Class 2 - Fast Rate of Evaporation. Water affects the entire room of carpet and cushion. May have wicked up the walls, but not more than 24 inches. **IICRC s500 2016 update adds that class 2 be indicated when 5% to 40% of the total square footage of a room (ceiling+walls+floor) are affected **

Class 3 - Fastest Rate of Evaporation. Water generally comes from overhead, affecting the entire area; walls, ceilings, insulation, carpet, cushion, etc. **IICRC s500 2016 update adds that class 3 be indicated when >40% of the total square footage of a room (ceiling+walls+floor) are affected **

Class 4 - Specialty Drying Situations. Involves materials with a very low permeance/porosity, such as hardwood floors, concrete, crawlspaces, gypcrete, plaster, etc. Drying generally requires very low specific humidity to accomplish drying.

Restoration

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See also: Convectant drying

Water damage restoration can be performed by property management teams, building maintenance personnel, or by the homeowners themselves; however, contacting a certified professional water damage restoration specialist is often regarded as the safest way to restore water damaged property. Certified professional water damage restoration specialists utilize psychrometrics to monitor the drying process.[8]

Standards and regulation

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While there are currently no government regulations in the United States dictating procedures, two certifying bodies, the Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) and the RIA, do recommend standards of care. The current IICRC standard is ANSI/IICRC S500-2021.[9] It is the collaborative work of the IICRC, SCRT, IEI, IAQA, and NADCA.

Fire and Water Restoration companies are regulated by the appropriate state's Department of Consumer Affairs - usually the state contractors license board. In California, all Fire and Water Restoration companies must register with the California Contractors State License Board.[10] Presently, the California Contractors State License Board has no specific classification for "water and fire damage restoration."

Procedures

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Water damage restoration is often prefaced by a loss assessment and evaluation of affected materials. The damaged area is inspected with water sensing equipment such as probes and other infrared tools in order to determine the source of the damage and possible extent of areas affected. Emergency mitigation services are the first order of business. Controlling the source of water, removal of non-salvageable materials, water extraction and pre-cleaning of impacted materials are all part of the mitigation process. Restoration services would then be rendered to the property in order to dry the structure, stabilize building materials, sanitize any affected or cross-contaminated areas, and deodorize all affected areas and materials. After the labor is completed, water damage equipment including air movers, air scrubbers, dehumidifiers, wood floor drying systems, and sub-floor drying equipment is left in the residence. The goal of the drying process is to stabilize the moisture content of impacted materials below 15%, the generally accepted threshold for microbial amplification. Industry standards state that drying vendors should return at regular time intervals, preferably every twenty-four hours, to monitor the equipment, temperature, humidity, and moisture content of the affected walls and contents.[6] In conclusion, key aspects of water damage restoration include fast action, adequate equipment, moisture measurements, and structural drying. Dehumidification is especially crucial for structural components affected by water damage, such as wooden beams, flooring, and drywall.

See also

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  • Indoor mold

References

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  1. ^ "Individual Disaster Assistance". DisasterAssistance.gov. Retrieved 2009-09-28.
  2. ^ "How We Use Water". 16 January 2017.
  3. ^ The University of Maine Corporate Extension – www.umext.maine.edu
  4. ^ Herndon Jr., Everette L.; Yang, Chin S. (August 2000). "Mold & Mildew: A Creeping Catastrophe". Claims Magazine. Archived from the original on 2000-08-15. Retrieved November 4, 2016.
  5. ^ Moisture Control Guidance for Building Design, Construction and Maintenance. December 2013.
  6. ^ "Water Damage Restoration Guideline" (PDF). Northern Arizona University. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2013-06-26. Retrieved 2 September 2014.
  7. ^ "The Basics Of Water Damage Restoration Training". www.iicrc.org. Retrieved 2016-11-03.
  8. ^ "Chapter 6: Psychrometry and the Science of Drying". IICRC Standards Subscription Site. Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification. Retrieved 27 September 2020.
  9. ^ "ANSI/IICRC S500 Water Damage Restoration". IICRC. 22 December 2020. Retrieved 14 February 2022.
  10. ^ "California Contractors State License Board". State of California. Retrieved 2010-08-29.
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Reviews for

Jeffery James

(5)

Very happy with my experience. They were prompt and followed through, and very helpful in fixing the crack in my foundation.

Sarah McNeily

(5)

USS was excellent. They are honest, straightforward, trustworthy, and conscientious. They thoughtfully removed the flowers and flower bulbs to dig where they needed in the yard, replanted said flowers and spread the extra dirt to fill in an area of the yard. We've had other services from different companies and our yard was really a mess after. They kept the job site meticulously clean. The crew was on time and friendly. I'd recommend them any day! Thanks to Jessie and crew.

Jim de Leon

(5)

It was a pleasure to work with Rick and his crew. From the beginning, Rick listened to my concerns and what I wished to accomplish. Out of the 6 contractors that quoted the project, Rick seemed the MOST willing to accommodate my wishes. His pricing was definitely more than fair as well. I had 10 push piers installed to stabilize and lift an addition of my house. The project commenced at the date that Rick had disclosed initially and it was completed within the same time period expected (based on Rick's original assessment). The crew was well informed, courteous, and hard working. They were not loud (even while equipment was being utilized) and were well spoken. My neighbors were very impressed on how polite they were when they entered / exited my property (saying hello or good morning each day when they crossed paths). You can tell they care about the customer concerns. They ensured that the property would be put back as clean as possible by placing MANY sheets of plywood down prior to excavating. They compacted the dirt back in the holes extremely well to avoid large stock piles of soils. All the while, the main office was calling me to discuss updates and expectations of completion. They provided waivers of lien, certificates of insurance, properly acquired permits, and JULIE locates. From a construction background, I can tell you that I did not see any flaws in the way they operated and this an extremely professional company. The pictures attached show the push piers added to the foundation (pictures 1, 2 & 3), the amount of excavation (picture 4), and the restoration after dirt was placed back in the pits and compacted (pictures 5, 6 & 7). Please notice that they also sealed two large cracks and steel plated these cracks from expanding further (which you can see under my sliding glass door). I, as well as my wife, are extremely happy that we chose United Structural Systems for our contractor. I would happily tell any of my friends and family to use this contractor should the opportunity arise!

Chris Abplanalp

(5)

USS did an amazing job on my underpinning on my house, they were also very courteous to the proximity of my property line next to my neighbor. They kept things in order with all the dirt/mud they had to excavate. They were done exactly in the timeframe they indicated, and the contract was very details oriented with drawings of what would be done. Only thing that would have been nice, is they left my concrete a little muddy with boot prints but again, all-in-all a great job

Dave Kari

(5)

What a fantastic experience! Owner Rick Thomas is a trustworthy professional. Nick and the crew are hard working, knowledgeable and experienced. I interviewed every company in the area, big and small. A homeowner never wants to hear that they have foundation issues. Out of every company, I trusted USS the most, and it paid off in the end. Highly recommend.

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