Impact of Freeze Thaw Cycles on Concrete Slabs

Impact of Freeze Thaw Cycles on Concrete Slabs

* Recognizing Warning Signs: Cracks in Walls and Foundation

* Understanding the science behind freeze-thaw damage in concrete.


Okay, let's talk about why concrete slabs crumble and crack when winter comes knocking, specifically focusing on the science of freeze-thaw damage. Obtaining permits is an essential step in any professional foundation repair service residential foundation repair service basement. We've all seen it, right? Perfectly good concrete driveways or sidewalks suddenly looking like they've aged a century after a particularly brutal winter. It's not just about the cold; it's about the water trapped inside and what happens when it turns to ice.

Concrete, despite appearing solid, is actually a porous material. Think of it like a really, really hard sponge. It's got tiny, microscopic pores and capillaries that can soak up water from rain, melting snow, or even just humidity in the air. Now, when temperatures drop below freezing, that water transforms into ice. And here's the kicker: water expands when it freezes, about 9% in volume.

Imagine that expansion happening inside the tiny confines of those concrete pores. It's like trying to stuff a too-big balloon into a small box. The ice exerts immense pressure on the surrounding concrete. This pressure can easily exceed the tensile strength of the concrete, the force it can withstand before it starts to tear apart. Over time, with repeated freeze-thaw cycles – water freezing, thawing, freezing again – these micro-cracks grow larger and larger.

It's not just the expansion of water itself that causes problems. There's also something called hydraulic pressure. As ice forms within the concrete, it blocks the escape routes for unfrozen water. This trapped water gets squeezed into smaller and smaller spaces, further increasing the pressure and accelerating the damage.

Think of it like this: you're trying to squeeze water out of a wet sponge, but you've blocked all the holes. The pressure builds up until something gives way. In the case of concrete, that "giving way" is the formation of cracks.

The type of concrete also plays a role. Concrete with a higher water-to-cement ratio tends to be more porous and therefore more susceptible to freeze-thaw damage. Air-entrained concrete, which contains intentionally introduced tiny air bubbles, is much more resistant. These air bubbles act as relief valves, providing space for the expanding ice to move into, reducing the pressure on the surrounding concrete matrix.

So, the next time you see a cracked concrete slab, remember it's not just the cold's fault. It's a complex interplay of water, expansion, pressure, and the inherent properties of the concrete itself, all working together to break down even the most seemingly solid structures. Understanding this science is crucial for designing more durable concrete structures that can withstand the rigors of freeze-thaw environments.

* Identifying common signs of freeze-thaw damage on residential concrete slabs.


Okay, so you're looking at your concrete slab – maybe it's your patio, your driveway, or even your foundation. You're probably wondering if those little cracks and surface imperfections are just normal wear and tear, or something more sinister. Living in a place where the temperature dips below freezing means you're dealing with the potential for freeze-thaw damage, and it's good to know what to look for.

Think of it like this: water gets into the tiny pores and cracks in the concrete. When the temperature drops, that water freezes and expands. Ice takes up more space than water, right? That expansion puts pressure on the concrete from the inside out. Then, when things warm up, the ice melts, leaving behind even more space for water to seep in during the next freeze. It's a repeating cycle of expansion and contraction, a relentless assault on the concrete's integrity.

So, what does this assault actually look like? Common signs include scaling, which is when the surface of the concrete starts to flake off in thin layers. It might look like someone took a sandblaster to it. You might also see surface cracking, those little hairlines that can eventually widen and deepen. Discoloration is another clue. Sometimes, the concrete will look lighter or darker in certain areas, especially where water tends to pool. And finally, keep an eye out for crumbling or spalling, which is when chunks of concrete actually break away, leaving behind pits or exposed aggregate.

The severity of these signs can vary depending on a few factors: the quality of the concrete itself, how much moisture it's exposed to, and how often it goes through those freeze-thaw cycles. It's better to catch these problems early, because ignoring them means they'll only get worse over time, potentially leading to more expensive repairs down the road. So, take a walk around your property and give your concrete slabs a good once-over. Knowing what to look for is the first step in protecting your investment.

* The impact of freeze-thaw cycles on different types of residential foundations.


Okay, so let's talk about freeze-thaw cycles and how they mess with concrete slabs, especially in residential foundations. Think of it like this: water is sneaky. It gets into tiny cracks in your concrete, cracks that are probably already there thanks to the normal settling and aging of the house. Then, winter hits. That water freezes. And when water freezes, it expands. We're talking about a significant amount of force, pushing outward on the concrete from inside those little cracks.

Now, imagine this happening over and over again – freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw. It's like a tiny, relentless jackhammer working away inside your foundation. Each cycle widens those cracks just a little bit more. Over time, this can lead to significant damage. We're talking about spalling, where the surface of the concrete starts to flake off. We're talking about larger cracks developing, potentially compromising the structural integrity of the slab.

The type of concrete used matters too. A poorly mixed or cured slab is going to be more susceptible to freeze-thaw damage than a well-made one. The soil around the foundation also plays a role. If the soil retains a lot of moisture, it's going to contribute to more water getting into the concrete in the first place.

Ultimately, understanding the impact of freeze-thaw cycles is crucial for homeowners in colder climates. It's a reminder to properly maintain your foundation, ensuring good drainage and sealing any existing cracks to prevent water intrusion. Ignoring it? Well, that's just asking for a headache, and a potentially expensive repair bill, down the road. It's a slow, insidious process, but definitely one to be aware of if you want your house to stay put.

* Preventative measures homeowners can take to minimize freeze-thaw damage.


Okay, so you've got this concrete slab, right? Maybe it's your driveway, your patio, or even the foundation of your shed. You're probably not thinking about the microscopic war raging inside it every winter, but trust me, it's happening. Freeze-thaw cycles are like the slow, relentless enemy of concrete, and they can really do a number on your investment.

The basic problem is water. Concrete, even when it looks solid, is actually porous. It's got tiny little holes and cracks that water can seep into. Now, when the temperature drops below freezing, that water turns to ice. And here's the kicker: ice expands. That expansion puts pressure on the surrounding concrete, pushing and straining against it. Then, when things warm up again, the ice melts, the pressure releases, and the water seeps deeper, ready for the next freeze. Repeat this cycle over and over, winter after winter, and you're looking at some serious damage.

Think of it like this: imagine repeatedly bending a paperclip back and forth. Eventually, it's going to snap, right? That's kind of what's happening to your concrete on a microscopic level. Small cracks become bigger cracks, the surface starts to flake and scale (we call that spalling), and before you know it, you've got a real mess on your hands.

But don't despair! There are things you can do to fight back. The key is to minimize the amount of water that gets into the concrete in the first place. Think preventative measures.

First, make sure water drains away from the slab. Good grading is crucial. If water pools near the concrete, it's just begging to be absorbed. Keep gutters clean and downspouts extended so they're directing water away from the foundation.

Next, consider sealing the concrete. A good quality concrete sealer acts like a raincoat, preventing water from penetrating the surface. You'll need to reapply it periodically, depending on the product and the weather conditions, but it's a worthwhile investment.

Avoid using de-icing salts, especially those containing ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate. While they melt ice effectively, they can also chemically attack the concrete, accelerating the damage. If you absolutely must use de-icer, opt for calcium chloride or magnesium chloride, and use them sparingly. Better yet, shovel the snow and ice whenever possible.

Finally, keep the concrete clean. Debris like leaves and dirt can trap moisture against the surface, creating a perfect environment for freeze-thaw damage. A good sweep or a power wash now and then can make a big difference.

So, while you can't completely eliminate the impact of freeze-thaw cycles, taking these preventative measures will definitely help extend the life of your concrete slab and save you money in the long run. Think of it as a little winter warfare on your own terms.

* Repair options for concrete slabs damaged by freeze-thaw cycles.


Okay, so your concrete slab took a beating from the freeze-thaw cycle, huh? Welcome to the club. It's a common problem, especially if you live anywhere that gets proper winters. The good news is, it's usually fixable, though the best approach depends on how extensive the damage is.

Think of it like a wound. If it's just a little nick, maybe some minor surface scaling or hairline cracks, you might get away with a simple resurfacing. This usually involves cleaning the area thoroughly, maybe applying a concrete bonding agent, and then troweling on a new layer of concrete or a cement-based topping. It's like putting on a bandage – it covers the superficial damage and protects the area.

But if the freeze-thaw really got in there, causing deeper, wider cracks or even spalling (where chunks of concrete break off), you're looking at something more serious. You might need to break out the jackhammer and remove the damaged concrete entirely. Then you'd patch the area with fresh concrete, making sure to properly consolidate it and cure it properly. Think of it as reconstructive surgery – you're removing the dead tissue and rebuilding the structure.

For larger areas or widespread damage, a full replacement might be the only sensible option. It sounds drastic, but sometimes it's the most cost-effective solution in the long run because you're starting with a solid foundation again. It's like admitting the old house is beyond repair and building a new one in its place.

Now, before you grab any tools, a crucial step is to figure out why the freeze-thaw damage happened in the first place. Was the concrete mix itself poor? Was there inadequate drainage? Was it improperly sealed? Addressing the underlying cause is key to preventing the same problem from recurring. Think of it like treating an infection – you need to kill the bacteria, not just cover up the symptoms.

Finally, sealing the repaired or replaced concrete is a *must*. A good sealant acts like a raincoat for your concrete, preventing water from penetrating and starting the freeze-thaw cycle all over again. It's the preventative medicine that helps keep your concrete slab healthy for years to come. So, assess the damage, diagnose the cause, choose the appropriate repair, and seal it up. Good luck!

* Choosing the right residential foundation repair service for freeze-thaw issues.


Okay, so you've got a concrete slab, maybe it's your driveway, your patio, or even the foundation of your house. And you live somewhere where winter means freezing temperatures and snow, followed by a thaw. Sounds picturesque, right? Well, not so much for your concrete. Those freeze-thaw cycles? They can be a real headache.

Imagine water seeping into the tiny pores and cracks that naturally exist in concrete. When the temperature drops below freezing, that water expands as it turns to ice. This expansion puts pressure on the surrounding concrete. Think of it like trying to stuff too much into a suitcase – eventually, something's gotta give.

Now, one freeze-thaw cycle might not seem like a big deal. But imagine that happening hundreds of times over the years. Each time, the ice is pushing and stressing the concrete. Over time, this repeated stress weakens the material. Cracks widen, chunks can break off (we call that spalling), and the whole thing can start to crumble. It's like a slow-motion demolition derby, and the freeze-thaw cycle is the relentless driver.

The impact isn't just cosmetic, either. If we're talking about a foundation slab, these cracks can let in moisture, leading to even more problems like mold and structural damage. A cracked driveway is annoying, but a compromised foundation? That's a whole different ballgame.

So, understanding the impact of freeze-thaw cycles is crucial, especially if you live in a climate where it happens regularly. It's not about panicking, but about being aware and taking preventative measures. Things like proper sealing and drainage can help minimize the amount of water that gets into the concrete in the first place. And if you do notice cracks developing, addressing them early can prevent them from becoming major problems down the road. Because let's face it, nobody wants to watch their concrete slowly fall apart, one freeze-thaw cycle at a time.

* The long-term costs associated with neglecting freeze-thaw damage.


Okay, so we're talking about concrete slabs and how those pesky freeze-thaw cycles mess them up. We often focus on the immediate cracks and surface scaling, but what about the long game? What does ignoring that initial damage *really* cost you down the road? Well, let's just say it's more than a quick patch job.

Think about it. That little crack, the one you might dismiss as just cosmetic, it's an entry point. Water gets in, freezes, expands, and widens the crack. Each cycle makes things worse. Over time, this seemingly minor issue becomes a major structural problem.

What starts as surface scaling can evolve into deep spalling, where chunks of concrete break off. Now you've got a safety hazard. Someone could trip, a vehicle could be damaged. That small crack? Now it's a liability.

And then there's the replacement cost. Let's be honest, if the damage is extensive enough, the entire slab needs to be ripped out and replaced. That's a major project involving labor, materials, and potentially disrupting your business or home life. Compare that to the relatively small cost of early intervention, like applying a sealant or making minor repairs, and it's a no-brainer.

Beyond the purely financial, there's the aesthetic cost. A crumbling, cracked concrete slab is just plain ugly. It detracts from the overall appearance of your property and can even lower its value. Nobody wants to look at a crumbling mess.

So, neglecting freeze-thaw damage isn't just about ignoring a few cracks. It's about setting yourself up for a cascade of problems, from safety hazards and aesthetic blight to major structural repairs and costly replacements. Addressing the initial damage is an investment, not an expense. It's about protecting your property and your wallet in the long run. It's about being proactive instead of reactive, and that's always a smarter, more cost-effective strategy.



A load-bearing wall or bearing wall is a wall that is an active structural element of a building, which holds the weight of the elements above it, by conducting its weight to a foundation structure below it.

Load-bearing walls are one of the earliest forms of construction. The development of the flying buttress in Gothic architecture allowed structures to maintain an open interior space, transferring more weight to the buttresses instead of to central bearing walls. In housing, load-bearing walls are most common in the light construction method known as "platform framing". In the birth of the skyscraper era, the concurrent rise of steel as a more suitable framing system first designed by William Le Baron Jenney, and the limitations of load-bearing construction in large buildings, led to a decline in the use of load-bearing walls in large-scale commercial structures.

Description

[edit]

A load-bearing wall or bearing wall is a wall that is an active structural element of a building — that is, it bears the weight of the elements above said wall, resting upon it by conducting its weight to a foundation structure.[1] The materials most often used to construct load-bearing walls in large buildings are concrete, block, or brick. By contrast, a curtain wall provides no significant structural support beyond what is necessary to bear its own materials or conduct such loads to a bearing wall.[2]

History

[edit]

Load-bearing walls are one of the earliest forms of construction.[3] The development of the flying buttress in Gothic architecture allowed structures to maintain an open interior space, transferring more weight to the buttresses instead of to central bearing walls. The Notre Dame Cathedral is an example of a load-bearing wall structure with flying buttresses.[4]

Application

[edit]

Depending on the type of building and the number of floors, load-bearing walls are gauged to the appropriate thickness to carry the weight above them. Without doing so, it is possible that an outer wall could become unstable if the load exceeds the strength of the material used, potentially leading to the collapse of the structure. The primary function of this wall is to enclose or divide space of the building to make it more functional and useful. It provides privacy, affords security, and gives protection against heat, cold, sun or rain.[5]

Housing

[edit]

In housing, load-bearing walls are most common in the light construction method known as "platform framing", and each load-bearing wall sits on a wall sill plate which is mated to the lowest base plate. The sills are bolted to the masonry or concrete foundation.[6]

A beam of PSL lumber installed to replace a load-bearing wall at the first floor of a three-story building.

The top plate or ceiling plate is the top of the wall, which sits just below the platform of the next floor (at the ceiling). The base plate or floor plate is the bottom attachment point for the wall studs. Using a top plate and a bottom plate, a wall can be constructed while it lies on its side, allowing for end-nailing of the studs between two plates, and then the finished wall can be tipped up vertically into place atop the wall sill; this not only improves accuracy and shortens construction time, but also produces a stronger wall.

Skyscrapers

[edit]
The Chicago Willis Tower uses a bundle of tube structures which, in turn, include numerous outer wall columns.

Due to the immense weight of skyscrapers, the base and walls of the lower floors must be extremely strong. Pilings are used to anchor the building to the bedrock underground. For example, the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building as well as the world's tallest structure, uses specially treated and mixed reinforced concrete. Over 45,000 cubic metres (59,000 cu yd) of concrete, weighing more than 110,000 t (120,000 short tons) were used to construct the concrete and steel foundation, which features 192 piles, with each pile being 1.5 m diameter × 43 m long (4.9 ft × 141 ft) and buried more than 50 m (160 ft) deep.[7]

See also

[edit]
  • Column – in most larger, multi-storey buildings, vertical loads are primarily borne by columns / pillars instead of structural walls
  • Tube frame structure – Some of the world's tallest skyscrapers use load-bearing outer frames – be it single tube (e.g. the old WTC Twin Towers), or bundled tube (e.g. the Willis Tower or the Burj Khalifa)

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "How to Identify a Load-Bearing Wall". Lifehacker. Retrieved 2020-06-26.
  2. ^ "Load-bearing wall". www.designingbuildings.co.uk. Retrieved 2020-06-26.
  3. ^ Montaner, Carme (2021-03-31). "8º Simposio Iberoamericano de Historia de la Cartografía. El mapa como elemento de conexión cultural entre América y Europa. Barcelona, 21 y 22 de octubre del 2020". Investigaciones Geográficas (104). doi:10.14350/rig.60378. ISSN 2448-7279. S2CID 233611245.
  4. ^ Mendes, Gilmar de Melo (2012). El equilibrio de la arquitectura organizativa desde el enfoque de agencia: estudio de un caso (Thesis). Universidad de Valladolid. doi:10.35376/10324/921.
  5. ^ "7 FUNCTIONAL REQUIREMENTS A BUILDING WALL SHOULD SATISFY". CivilBlog.Org. 2015-07-08. Retrieved 2020-05-31.
  6. ^ "What is Platform Framing? (with pictures)". wiseGEEK. Retrieved 2020-06-26.
  7. ^ "Burj Khalifa, Dubai | 182168". Emporis. Archived from the original on August 5, 2011. Retrieved 2018-09-17.
A mobile home being repaired in Oklahoma
A person making these repairs to a house after a flood

Home repair involves the diagnosis and resolution of problems in a home, and is related to home maintenance to avoid such problems. Many types of repairs are "do it yourself" (DIY) projects, while others may be so complicated, time-consuming or risky as to require the assistance of a qualified handyperson, property manager, contractor/builder, or other professionals.

Home repair is not the same as renovation, although many improvements can result from repairs or maintenance. Often the costs of larger repairs will justify the alternative of investment in full-scale improvements. It may make just as much sense to upgrade a home system (with an improved one) as to repair it or incur ever-more-frequent and expensive maintenance for an inefficient, obsolete or dying system.

Worn, consumed, dull, dirty, clogged

[edit]

Repairs often mean simple replacement of worn or used components intended to be periodically renewed by a home-owner, such as burnt out light bulbs, worn out batteries, or overfilled vacuum cleaner bags. Another class of home repairs relates to restoring something to a useful condition, such as sharpening tools or utensils, replacing leaky faucet washers, cleaning out plumbing traps, rain gutters. Because of the required precision, specialized tools, or hazards, some of these are best left to experts such as a plumber. One emergency repair that may be necessary in this area is overflowing toilets. Most of them have a shut-off valve on a pipe beneath or behind them so that the water supply can be turned off while repairs are made, either by removing a clog or repairing a broken mechanism.

Broken or damaged

[edit]

Perhaps the most perplexing repairs facing a home-owner are broken or damaged things. In today's era of built-in obsolescence for many products, it is often more convenient to replace something rather than attempt to repair it. A repair person is faced with the tasks of accurately identifying the problem, then finding the materials, supplies, tools and skills necessary to sufficiently effect the repair. Some things, such as broken windows, appliances or furniture can be carried to a repair shop, but there are many repairs that can be performed easily enough, such as patching holes in plaster and drywall, cleaning stains, repairing cracked windows and their screens, or replacing a broken electrical switch or outlet. Other repairs may have some urgency, such as broken water pipes, broken doors, latches or windows, or a leaky roof or water tank, and this factor can certainly justify calling for professional help. A home handyperson may become adept at dealing with such immediate repairs, to avoid further damage or loss, until a professional can be summoned.

Emergency repairs

[edit]

Emergencies can happen at any time, so it is important to know how to quickly and efficiently fix the problem. From natural disasters, power loss, appliance failure and no water, emergency repairs tend to be one of the most important repairs to be comfortable and confident with. In most cases, the repairs are DIY or fixable with whatever is around the house. Common repairs would be fixing a leak, broken window, flooding, frozen pipes or clogged toilet. Each problem can have a relatively simple fix, a leaky roof and broken window can be patched, a flood can be pumped out, pipes can be thawed and repaired and toilets can be unclogged with a chemical. For the most part, emergency repairs are not permanent. They are what you can do fast to stop the problem then have a professional come in to permanently fix it.[1] Flooding as a result of frozen pipes, clogged toilets or a leaky roof can result in very costly water damage repairs and even potential health issues resulting from mold growth if not addressed in a timely manner.

Maintenance

[edit]

Periodic maintenance also falls under the general class of home repairs. These are inspections, adjustments, cleaning, or replacements that should be done regularly to ensure proper functioning of all the systems in a house, and to avoid costly emergencies. Examples include annual testing and adjustment of alarm systems, central heating or cooling systems (electrodes, thermocouples, and fuel filters), replacement of water treatment components or air-handling filters, purging of heating radiators and water tanks, defrosting a freezer, vacuum refrigerator coils, refilling dry floor-drain traps with water, cleaning out rain gutters, down spouts and drains, touching up worn house paint and weather seals, and cleaning accumulated creosote out of chimney flues, which may be best left to a chimney sweep.

Examples of less frequent home maintenance that should be regularly forecast and budgeted include repainting or staining outdoor wood or metal, repainting masonry, waterproofing masonry, cleaning out septic systems, replacing sacrificial electrodes in water heaters, replacing old washing machine hoses (preferably with stainless steel hoses less likely to burst and cause a flood), and other home improvements such as replacement of obsolete or ageing systems with limited useful lifetimes (water heaters, wood stoves, pumps, and asphaltic or wooden roof shingles and siding.

Often on the bottom of people's to-do list is home maintenance chores, such as landscaping, window and gutter cleaning, power washing the siding and hard-scape, etc. However, these maintenance chores pay for themselves over time. Often, injury could occur when operating heavy machinery or when climbing on ladders or roofs around your home, so if an individual is not in the proper physical condition to accomplish these chores, then they should consult a professional. Lack of maintenance will cost more due to higher costs associated with repairs or replacements to be made later. It requires discipline and learning aptitude to repair and maintain the home in good condition, but it is a satisfying experience to perform even seemingly minor repairs.

Good operations

[edit]

Another related issue for avoiding costly repairs (or disasters) is the proper operation of a home, including systems and appliances, in a way that prevents damage or prolongs their usefulness. For example, at higher latitudes, even a clean rain gutter can suddenly build up an ice dam in winter, forcing melt water into unprotected roofing, resulting in leaks or even flooding inside walls or rooms. This can be prevented by installing moisture barrier beneath the roofing tiles. A wary home-owner should be alert to the conditions that can result in larger problems and take remedial action before damage or injury occurs. It may be easier to tack down a bit of worn carpet than repair a large patch damaged by prolonged misuse. Another example is to seek out the source of unusual noises or smells when mechanical, electrical or plumbing systems are operating—sometimes they indicate incipient problems. One should avoid overloading or otherwise misusing systems, and a recurring overload may indicate time for an upgrade.

Water infiltration is one of the most insidious sources of home damage. Small leaks can lead to water stains, and rotting wood. Soft, rotten wood is an inviting target for termites and other wood-damaging insects. Left unattended, a small leak can lead to significant structural damage, necessitating the replacement of beams and framing.

With a useful selection of tools, typical materials and supplies on hand, and some home repair information or experience, a home-owner or handyperson should be able to carry out a large number of DIY home repairs and identify those that will need the specialized attention of others.

Remediation of environmental problems

[edit]

When a home is sold, inspections are performed that may reveal environmental hazards such as radon gas in the basement or water supply or friable asbestos materials (both of which can cause lung cancer), peeling or disturbed lead paint (a risk to children and pregnant women), in-ground heating oil tanks that may contaminate ground water, or mold that can cause problems for those with asthma or allergies. Typically the buyer or mortgage lender will require these conditions to be repaired before allowing the purchase to close. An entire industry of environmental remediation contractors has developed to help home owners resolve these types of problems.

See also

[edit]
  • Electrical wiring
  • Handyperson
  • Housekeeping
  • Home improvement
  • Home wiring
  • HVAC
  • Maintenance, repair, and operations
  • Plumbing
  • Right to repair
  • Smoke alarm
  • Winterization

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Reader's Digest New Complete Do-it-yourself Manual. Montreal, Canada: Reader's Digest Association. 1991. pp. 9–13. ISBN 9780888501783. OCLC 1008853527.

 

Photo
Photo
Photo
Photo

Reviews for


Jeffery James

(5)

Very happy with my experience. They were prompt and followed through, and very helpful in fixing the crack in my foundation.

Sarah McNeily

(5)

USS was excellent. They are honest, straightforward, trustworthy, and conscientious. They thoughtfully removed the flowers and flower bulbs to dig where they needed in the yard, replanted said flowers and spread the extra dirt to fill in an area of the yard. We've had other services from different companies and our yard was really a mess after. They kept the job site meticulously clean. The crew was on time and friendly. I'd recommend them any day! Thanks to Jessie and crew.

Jim de Leon

(5)

It was a pleasure to work with Rick and his crew. From the beginning, Rick listened to my concerns and what I wished to accomplish. Out of the 6 contractors that quoted the project, Rick seemed the MOST willing to accommodate my wishes. His pricing was definitely more than fair as well. I had 10 push piers installed to stabilize and lift an addition of my house. The project commenced at the date that Rick had disclosed initially and it was completed within the same time period expected (based on Rick's original assessment). The crew was well informed, courteous, and hard working. They were not loud (even while equipment was being utilized) and were well spoken. My neighbors were very impressed on how polite they were when they entered / exited my property (saying hello or good morning each day when they crossed paths). You can tell they care about the customer concerns. They ensured that the property would be put back as clean as possible by placing MANY sheets of plywood down prior to excavating. They compacted the dirt back in the holes extremely well to avoid large stock piles of soils. All the while, the main office was calling me to discuss updates and expectations of completion. They provided waivers of lien, certificates of insurance, properly acquired permits, and JULIE locates. From a construction background, I can tell you that I did not see any flaws in the way they operated and this an extremely professional company. The pictures attached show the push piers added to the foundation (pictures 1, 2 & 3), the amount of excavation (picture 4), and the restoration after dirt was placed back in the pits and compacted (pictures 5, 6 & 7). Please notice that they also sealed two large cracks and steel plated these cracks from expanding further (which you can see under my sliding glass door). I, as well as my wife, are extremely happy that we chose United Structural Systems for our contractor. I would happily tell any of my friends and family to use this contractor should the opportunity arise!

Chris Abplanalp

(5)

USS did an amazing job on my underpinning on my house, they were also very courteous to the proximity of my property line next to my neighbor. They kept things in order with all the dirt/mud they had to excavate. They were done exactly in the timeframe they indicated, and the contract was very details oriented with drawings of what would be done. Only thing that would have been nice, is they left my concrete a little muddy with boot prints but again, all-in-all a great job

Dave Kari

(5)

What a fantastic experience! Owner Rick Thomas is a trustworthy professional. Nick and the crew are hard working, knowledgeable and experienced. I interviewed every company in the area, big and small. A homeowner never wants to hear that they have foundation issues. Out of every company, I trusted USS the most, and it paid off in the end. Highly recommend.

View GBP