Pinpointing Sinking Spots around the Foundation Perimeter

Pinpointing Sinking Spots around the Foundation Perimeter

* Evaluating Soil Issues Affecting Foundation Stability

* Identifying Potential Sinking Spots: Visual Cues


Alright, so you're worried about your foundation, and you're right to be. Home inspections help identify foundation issues before they worsen home foundation repair service home insurance. A sinking foundation is no joke. But how do you even *know* if you're heading for trouble? Well, one of the best (and cheapest!) ways to start is by just using your eyes. We're talking about becoming a foundation detective, Sherlock Holmes style, but instead of a magnifying glass, you're armed with observation skills and a notepad.

Walk around your house, slowly, carefully, focusing on the perimeter where the foundation meets the ground. What are you looking for? Think of it like this: you're trying to spot inconsistencies, things that look "off."

For instance, are there any obvious dips or depressions in the soil right next to the foundation? Water loves to pool in these areas, which can further erode the soil and contribute to settling. Maybe you see exposed foundation where soil used to be. That's a red flag.

Look at the landscaping. Are shrubs or bushes leaning dramatically to one side? Plants are surprisingly good indicators of ground movement. If they're struggling, it might be more than just a lack of fertilizer.

Pay close attention to the concrete itself. Are there new cracks appearing, especially horizontal ones? Hairline cracks are often normal, but wider cracks, especially those that are widening over time, demand attention. Are there sections that look like they might be tilting or sinking relative to other sections?

And don't forget about the doors and windows! Are they sticking or becoming difficult to open and close? This can be a sign that the house is shifting, putting pressure on the frames.

The key is to look for patterns and changes. Take pictures, make notes, date everything. A single observation might not be a cause for panic, but a collection of these visual cues, especially if they're getting worse, is a clear sign that it's time to call in a professional. Think of it as early detection – the sooner you catch a potential problem, the easier (and cheaper!) it will be to fix. So put on your detective hat and get looking! Your house will thank you.

* Common Causes of Foundation Sinking near the Perimeter


Okay, so you're walking around your house, maybe doing some yard work, and you notice something...off. The ground seems to dip near the foundation, or maybe there's a crack in the brick that wasn't there before. Foundation sinking, especially around the perimeter, is a homeowner's nightmare, but understanding what's causing it can help you figure out how to fix it.

One of the biggest culprits is soil moisture – or rather, the *lack* of it. In dry spells, the soil around your foundation can shrink dramatically, leaving a void. This void doesn't support the weight of your house properly, and that perimeter starts to sag. Conversely, too much water can also be a problem. Think about poorly draining soil, leaky gutters that dump water right next to the foundation, or even underground springs rerouting themselves after a heavy rain. This excess water can erode the soil, weaken it, and lead to sinking.

Another common cause is poor soil compaction. When your house was built, the builders likely backfilled around the foundation. If that soil wasn't properly compacted, it will settle over time, creating gaps and causing the foundation to sink, particularly near the edges. This is especially true if the backfill contained organic materials that decompose and create even more settling.

Finally, trees can be surprisingly problematic. Those beautiful, mature trees near your house can have incredibly thirsty root systems. They can literally suck the moisture out of the soil under and around your foundation, leading to shrinkage and, you guessed it, sinking. The closer the tree is to the foundation, and the larger it is, the bigger the potential impact.

Pinpointing the exact cause of sinking around the perimeter takes a keen eye and often the expertise of a foundation specialist. But knowing these common culprits – soil moisture imbalances, poor compaction, and thirsty trees – is a good first step in understanding what's happening to your home and how to address it.

* Tools and Techniques for Accurate Measurement


Okay, so you think your foundation's got a case of the sags? Pinpointing those sinking spots around the perimeter isn't always as straightforward as just eyeballing it. Sometimes, it's subtle, a gradual downward creep that's hard to detect without the right approach. Luckily, we've got some tools and techniques in our arsenal to help us get a handle on things.

First off, let's talk about the humble level. A good old-fashioned spirit level, or even better, a laser level, is your first line of defense. You'll want to run it along the foundation, checking for any obvious deviations from a true horizontal line. This can give you a rough idea of problem areas, especially if you're seeing significant dips.

Then there's the trusty tape measure, coupled with a benchmark. Establish a fixed point – maybe a nearby tree or a stable part of the house structure – and measure the distance from that point down to various spots along the foundation. Repeat these measurements over time. If you see a consistent decrease in distance at certain locations, that's a pretty good indicator that those areas are settling more than others. Consistency is key here; one-off measurements can be misleading due to natural variations in the ground.

Beyond the basics, we get into slightly more sophisticated methods. A surveyor's level and rod can offer highly accurate elevation readings. This involves setting up the surveyor's level at a known elevation and then using the rod to measure the elevation at multiple points around the foundation. The differences in these readings can precisely map out any sinking or unevenness. This is particularly useful if you're dealing with a large foundation or want a very detailed assessment.

And don't forget the power of observation! Look for cracks in the foundation itself. Are they wider in some areas than others? Are there patterns to the cracking that suggest localized sinking? Also, check for any signs of moisture accumulation near the foundation, as this can contribute to soil instability and settling.

Finally, consider the surrounding landscape. Is there any evidence of erosion or water runoff channeling towards particular sections of the foundation? Are there large trees nearby whose roots might be impacting the soil? These environmental factors can play a significant role in foundation problems.

Ultimately, pinpointing sinking spots is a process of gathering data from multiple sources and looking for patterns. Combining these tools and techniques gives you a much clearer picture of what's happening with your foundation and helps you make informed decisions about any necessary repairs. Remember, if you're feeling overwhelmed, it's always a good idea to consult with a qualified foundation specialist. They have the expertise and specialized equipment to conduct a thorough assessment and recommend the best course of action.

* Professional Foundation Inspection: When to Call


Okay, so you're strolling around your house, maybe admiring your petunias, and you notice something...off. The ground near your foundation, it just looks a little...lower. A slight dip here, a subtle sag there. Maybe you even see a small crack snaking through the soil. Is it just settling? An oddly shaped molehill? Or is it something more sinister – a sign your foundation is struggling?

Pinpointing sinking spots, especially around the perimeter, is definitely a red flag when it comes to your foundation. It's not always a cause for immediate panic, but it's absolutely worth investigating. Think of it like this: your foundation is the backbone of your home. If the ground supporting it starts to give way, the whole structure can be affected.

These sinking spots often indicate soil compaction issues or problems with drainage. Maybe rainwater isn't flowing away from your foundation as it should, leading to erosion and the ground beneath the concrete becoming unstable. Perhaps the soil itself is just naturally shifting or wasn't properly compacted when the house was built. Whatever the cause, the result is the same: the foundation loses support, and sinking can occur.

Now, a little bit of settling is normal, especially in new homes. But if you're seeing noticeable dips, cracks in the soil larger than a hairline, or if you're noticing these sinking spots getting worse over time, it's time to call in the professionals. A professional foundation inspection can pinpoint the exact cause of the problem, assess the severity of the damage, and recommend the best course of action. They have the expertise and equipment to determine if it's a minor issue that can be easily addressed or a more serious problem that requires significant repairs. Ignoring these signs could lead to much costlier repairs down the road, like major foundation cracks, sticking doors and windows, and even structural instability.

So, keep an eye on that perimeter! A little vigilance can save you a lot of headaches (and money) in the long run. If in doubt, don't hesitate to get a professional opinion. It's better to be safe than sorry when it comes to the stability of your home.

* Repair Solutions for Sinking Foundation Perimeters


Okay, so you've noticed your house is settling a bit unevenly, and you're pretty sure it's coming from the perimeter of the foundation. That sinking feeling in your gut? Totally understandable. Pinpointing those sinking spots around the foundation's edge is the first step, and honestly, it's like detective work for your home. Are there cracks wider on one side of a door or window than the other? Is the ground sloping *toward* the house instead of away? These are clues.

Once you've got some suspects identified – those areas where the earth seems to be giving way – you need to start thinking about repair solutions. It's rarely a one-size-fits-all fix, sadly. The solution depends on *why* it's sinking. Is it poor drainage washing away the soil? Are there tree roots sucking all the moisture out, causing the ground to shrink? Or is it just plain old soil compaction over time?

For drainage issues, re-grading the landscape to ensure water flows *away* from the foundation is crucial. You might need to install French drains or even extend downspouts. If tree roots are the culprit, you might need to consult an arborist about root barriers or even strategic removal (though that's definitely a last resort).

For more serious cases, like significant settling due to soil compaction or instability, you're talking about more involved solutions. Things like underpinning – installing piers beneath the foundation to reach stable soil – or soil stabilization techniques like chemical grouting. These are definitely projects for experienced foundation repair professionals.

The important thing is to not ignore it. A little bit of settling might seem harmless, but it can lead to bigger problems down the line, like structural damage and water intrusion. Getting those sinking spots around the foundation perimeter addressed sooner rather than later will save you a lot of headaches (and money) in the long run. Think of it as preventative medicine for your house!

* Preventative Measures to Avoid Future Sinking


Okay, so we've figured out where things are sinking around the foundation – not a fun discovery, I know. But knowing is half the battle, right? Now comes the part where we actually *do* something to keep it from getting worse. We're talking preventative measures, the kind of things that save you a whole lot of headache (and money) down the road.

Think of it like this: your house is a ship, and the soil around it is the water. We've identified the spots where the ship is taking on water, the little areas of sinking. We're not just going to bail water forever, are we? We need to plug those leaks.

One of the biggest culprits, often, is water management. Rainwater runoff is a major factor. Are your gutters clear? Are they directing water away from the foundation? If not, that's your first fix. Extend those downspouts! Make sure they're discharging water a good few feet from the house. Consider adding splash blocks to further disperse the flow. It's a simple thing, but it can make a huge difference.

Next up: grading. Is the ground sloping *towards* your house? That's a no-no. You want a gentle slope *away* from the foundation, so water naturally drains away. You might need to add some soil and reshape the landscape to achieve this. It's not just about aesthetics; it's about protecting your investment.

And then there's the soil itself. Is it compacted and hard, preventing water from properly draining? Or is it loose and easily eroded? Soil composition matters. Adding organic matter like compost can improve drainage and soil structure. If you've got clay soil (which tends to hold water), consider amending it with sand and other materials to improve its permeability.

Finally, think about vegetation. Trees and shrubs planted too close to the foundation can be thirsty beasts, sucking moisture out of the soil and contributing to uneven settling. Plus, their roots can actually damage the foundation over time. Consider relocating them if they're too close for comfort.

The key thing to remember is that preventative measures are about addressing the *cause* of the sinking, not just patching the symptoms. It's an investment in the long-term health of your home, and it's a whole lot cheaper and less stressful than dealing with major foundation repairs later on. So, get those gutters cleaned, check your grading, and give your soil some love. Your house will thank you for it.



 

Code Violation: This fire-rated concrete block wall is penetrated by cable trays and electrical cables. The hole should be firestopped to restore the fire-resistance rating of the wall. Instead, it is filled with flammable polyurethane foam.

A building code (also building control or building regulations) is a set of rules that specify the standards for construction objects such as buildings and non-building structures. Buildings must conform to the code to obtain planning permission, usually from a local council. The main purpose of building codes is to protect public health, safety and general welfare as they relate to the construction and occupancy of buildings and structures — for example, the building codes in many countries require engineers to consider the effects of soil liquefaction in the design of new buildings.[1] The building code becomes law of a particular jurisdiction when formally enacted by the appropriate governmental or private authority.[2]

Building codes are generally intended to be applied by architects, engineers, interior designers, constructors and regulators but are also used for various purposes by safety inspectors, environmental scientists, real estate developers, subcontractors, manufacturers of building products and materials, insurance companies, facility managers, tenants, and others. Codes regulate the design and construction of structures where adopted into law.

Examples of building codes began in ancient times.[3] In the USA the main codes are the International Building Code or International Residential Code [IBC/IRC], electrical codes and plumbing, mechanical codes. Fifty states and the District of Columbia have adopted the I-Codes at the state or jurisdictional level.[4] In Canada, national model codes are published by the National Research Council of Canada.[5] In the United Kingdom, compliance with Building Regulations is monitored by building control bodies, either Approved Inspectors or Local Authority Building Control departments. Building Control regularisation charges apply in case work is undertaken which should have had been inspected at the time of the work if this was not done.[6]

Types

[edit]

The practice of developing, approving, and enforcing building codes varies considerably among nations. In some countries building codes are developed by the government agencies or quasi-governmental standards organizations and then enforced across the country by the central government. Such codes are known as the national building codes (in a sense they enjoy a mandatory nationwide application).

In other countries, where the power of regulating construction and fire safety is vested in local authorities, a system of model building codes is used. Model building codes have no legal status unless adopted or adapted by an authority having jurisdiction. The developers of model codes urge public authorities to reference model codes in their laws, ordinances, regulations, and administrative orders. When referenced in any of these legal instruments, a particular model code becomes law. This practice is known as 'adoption by reference'. When an adopting authority decides to delete, add, or revise any portions of the model code adopted, it is usually required by the model code developer to follow a formal adoption procedure in which those modifications can be documented for legal purposes.

There are instances when some local jurisdictions choose to develop their own building codes. At some point in time all major cities in the United States had their own building codes. However, due to ever increasing complexity and cost of developing building regulations, virtually all municipalities in the country have chosen to adopt model codes instead. For example, in 2008 New York City abandoned its proprietary 1968 New York City Building Code in favor of a customized version of the International Building Code.[7] The City of Chicago remains the only municipality in America that continues to use a building code the city developed on its own as part of the Municipal Code of Chicago.

In Europe, the Eurocode: Basis of structural design, is a pan-European building code that has superseded the older national building codes. Each country now has National Annexes to localize the contents of the Eurocodes.

Similarly, in India, each municipality and urban development authority has its own building code, which is mandatory for all construction within their jurisdiction. All these local building codes are variants of a National Building Code,[8] which serves as model code proving guidelines for regulating building construction activity.

Scope

[edit]

The purpose of building codes is to provide minimum standards for safety, health, and general welfare including structural integrity, mechanical integrity (including sanitation, water supply, light, and ventilation), means of egress, fire prevention and control, and energy conservation.[9][10] Building codes generally include:

  • Standards for structure, placement, size, usage, wall assemblies, fenestration size/locations, egress rules, size/location of rooms, foundations, floor assemblies, roof structures/assemblies, energy efficiency, stairs and halls, mechanical, electrical, plumbing, site drainage & storage, appliance, lighting, fixtures standards, occupancy rules, and swimming pool regulations
  • Rules regarding parking and traffic impact
  • Fire code rules to minimize the risk of a fire and to ensure safe evacuation in the event of such an emergency[citation needed]
  • Requirements for earthquake (seismic code), hurricane, flood, and tsunami resistance, especially in disaster prone areas or for very large buildings where a failure would be catastrophic[citation needed]
  • Requirements for specific building uses (for example, storage of flammable substances, or housing a large number of people)
  • Energy provisions and consumption
  • Grandfather clauses: Unless the building is being renovated, the building code usually does not apply to existing buildings.
  • Specifications on components
  • Allowable installation methodologies
  • Minimum and maximum room ceiling heights, exit sizes and location
  • Qualification of individuals or corporations doing the work
  • For high structures, anti-collision markers for the benefit of aircraft

Building codes are generally separate from zoning ordinances, but exterior restrictions (such as setbacks) may fall into either category.

Designers use building code standards out of substantial reference books during design. Building departments review plans submitted to them before construction, issue permits [or not] and inspectors verify compliance to these standards at the site during construction.

There are often additional codes or sections of the same building code that have more specific requirements that apply to dwellings or places of business and special construction objects such as canopies, signs, pedestrian walkways, parking lots, and radio and television antennas.

Criticism

[edit]

Building codes have been criticized for contributing to housing crisis and increasing the cost of new housing to some extent, including through conflicting code between different administrators.[11] Proposed improvements include regular review and cost-benefit analysis of building codes,[12] promotion of low-cost construction materials and building codes suitable to mass production,[11] reducing bureaucracy, and promoting transparency.[13]

History

[edit]

Antiquity

[edit]

Building codes have a long history. The earliest known written building code is included in the Code of Hammurabi,[3] which dates from circa 1772 BC.

The book of Deuteronomy in the Hebrew Bible stipulated that parapets must be constructed on all houses to prevent people from falling off.[14]

In the Chinese book of rites it mentions that ancestral temples and houses should be a certain standard length in ancient China they measured land in the chu or well field system so it was important to be precise though most of the actual lengths are lost or obscure.[15][16]

In ancient Japan a certain official destroyed a courtiers house because the size was above his rank.[17]

Modern era

[edit]

France

[edit]

In Paris, under the reconstruction of much of the city under the Second Empire (1852–70), great blocks of apartments were erected[18] and the height of buildings was limited by law to five or six stories at most.

United Kingdom

[edit]

After the Great Fire of London in 1666, which had been able to spread so rapidly through the densely built timber housing of the city, the Rebuilding of London Act 1666 was passed in the same year as the first significant building regulation.[19] Drawn up by Sir Matthew Hale, the act regulated the rebuilding of the city, required housing to have some fire resistance capacity and authorised the City of London Corporation to reopen and widen roads.[20] The Laws of the Indies were passed in the 1680s by the Spanish Crown to regulate the urban planning for colonies throughout Spain's worldwide imperial possessions.

The first systematic national building standard was established with the Metropolitan Buildings Act 1844. Among the provisions, builders were required to give the district surveyor two days' notice before building, regulations regarding the thickness of walls, height of rooms, the materials used in repairs, the dividing of existing buildings and the placing and design of chimneys, fireplaces and drains were to be enforced and streets had to be built to minimum requirements.[21]

The Metropolitan Buildings Office was formed to regulate the construction and use of buildings throughout London. Surveyors were empowered to enforce building regulations, which sought to improve the standard of houses and business premises, and to regulate activities that might threaten public health. In 1855 the assets, powers and responsibilities of the office passed to the Metropolitan Board of Works.

United States

[edit]

The City of Baltimore passed its first building code in 1891.[22] The Great Baltimore Fire occurred in February 1904. Subsequent changes were made that matched other cities.[23] In 1904, a Handbook of the Baltimore City Building Laws was published. It served as the building code for four years. Very soon, a formal building code was drafted and eventually adopted in 1908.

The structural failure of the tank that caused the Great Molasses Flood of 1919 prompted the Boston Building Department to require engineering and architectural calculations be filed and signed. U.S. cities and states soon began requiring sign-off by registered professional engineers for the plans of major buildings.[24]

More recently, the 2015 Berkeley balcony collapse has prompted updates to California's balcony building codes, set for 2025, which include stricter material requirements, enhanced load-bearing standards, and mandatory inspections which known as SB326 and SB721.[25]These laws mandate regular inspections every six years for multifamily buildings. Property owners and HOAs are required to address any structural or waterproofing issues identified during inspections to ensure compliance and safety. Failure to comply can result in fines, increased liability, and legal consequences. The updates aim to prevent tragedies like the Berkeley collapse, which was caused by dry rot and structural failure, by ensuring the long-term safety and durability of elevated structures.[26]

Energy codes
[edit]

The current energy codes[clarification needed] of the United States are adopted at the state and municipal levels and are based on the International Energy Conservation Code (IECC). Previously, they were based on the Model Energy Code (MEC). As of March 2017, the following residential codes have been partially or fully adopted by states:[27]

  • 2015 IECC or equivalent (California, Illinois, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, Washington)
  • 2012 IECC or equivalent (Alabama, Connecticut, Delaware, District of Columbia, Florida, Iowa, Minnesota, Nevada, Rhode Island, Texas)
  • 2009 IECC or equivalent (Arkansas, Georgia, Idaho, Indiana, Kentucky, Louisiana, Montana, Nebraska, New Hampshire, New Mexico, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, South Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia, Wisconsin)
  • 2006 IECC or equivalent (Utah)
  • 2006 IECC or no statewide code (Alaska, Arizona, Colorado, Kansas, Maine, Mississippi, Missouri, North Dakota, South Dakota, Wyoming)

Australia

[edit]

Australia uses the National Construction Code.

See also

[edit]
  • Building officials
  • Construction law
  • Earthquake-resistant structures
  • Energy Efficiency and Conservation Block Grants
  • Outline of construction
  • Seismic code
  • Uniform Mechanical Code
  • Variance (land use) – permission to vary zoning and sometimes building to code

References

[edit]
  1. ^ CEN (2004). EN1998-5:2004 Eurocode 8: Design of structures for earthquake resistance, part 5: Foundations, retaining structures and geotechnical aspects. Brussels: European Committee for Standardization.
  2. ^ Ching, Francis D. K.; Winkel, Steven R. (22 March 2016). Building Codes Illustrated: A Guide to Understanding the 2015 International Building Code. John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-1-119-15095-4.
  3. ^ a b "Hammurabi's Code of Laws". eawc.evansville.edu. Archived from the original on 9 May 2008. Retrieved 24 May 2008.
  4. ^ "About ICC". www.iccsafe.org. Retrieved 8 December 2013.
  5. ^ Canada, Government of Canada. National Research Council. "Codes Canada - National Research Council Canada". www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca. Retrieved 1 April 2018.
  6. ^ Northampton Borough Council, Building Control - regularisation charges www.northampton.gov.uk Archived 11 May 2021 at the Wayback Machine, accessed 15 March 2021
  7. ^ NYC Construction Codes www.nyc.gov Archived 2 July 2006 at the Wayback Machine
  8. ^ National Building Code www.bis.org.in
  9. ^ Hageman, Jack M., and Brian E. P. Beeston. Contractor's guide to the building code. 6th ed. Carlsbad, CA: Craftsman Book Co., 2008. 10. Print.
  10. ^ Wexler, Harry J., and Richard Peck. Housing and local government: a research guide for policy makers and planners. Lexington, Mass. u.a.: Lexington Books, 1974. 53. Print.
  11. ^ a b Listokin, David; Hattis, David B. (2005). "Building Codes and Housing". Cityscape. 8 (1). US Department of Housing and Urban Development: 21–67. ISSN 1936-007X. JSTOR 20868571. Retrieved 25 July 2024.
  12. ^ Nwadike, Amarachukwu Nnadozie; Wilkinson, Suzanne (3 February 2022). "Why amending building codes? An investigation of the benefits of regular building code amendment in New Zealand". International Journal of Building Pathology and Adaptation. 40 (1): 76–100. doi:10.1108/IJBPA-08-2020-0068. ISSN 2398-4708.
  13. ^ Nwadike, Amarachukwu; Wilkinson, Suzanne (2021). "Promoting Performance-Based Building Code Compliance in New Zealand". Journal of Performance of Constructed Facilities. 35 (4). doi:10.1061/(ASCE)CF.1943-5509.0001603. ISSN 0887-3828.
  14. ^ Deuteronomy 22:8
  15. ^ Confucius (29 August 2016). Delphi Collected Works of Confucius - Four Books and Five Classics of Confucianism (Illustrated). Delphi Classics. ISBN 978-1-78656-052-0.
  16. ^ Mencius (28 October 2004). Mencius. Penguin UK. ISBN 978-0-14-190268-5.
  17. ^ Shonagon, Sei (30 November 2006). The Pillow Book. Penguin UK. ISBN 978-0-14-190694-2.
  18. ^ New International Encyclopedia
  19. ^ 'Charles II, 1666: An Act for rebuilding the City of London.', Statutes of the Realm: volume 5: 1628–80 (1819), pp. 603–12. URL: british-history.ac.uk, date accessed: 8 March 2007.
  20. ^ 'Book 1, Ch. 15: From the Fire to the death of Charles II', A New History of London: Including Westminster and Southwark (1773), pp. 230–55. URL: http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.asp?compid=46732. Date accessed: 7 March 2007.
  21. ^ "A Brief History of Building Regulations". www.npt.gov.uk.
  22. ^ Baltimore (Md.) (1891). Ordinances and Resolutions of the Mayor and City Council of Baltimore ... – via books.google.com.
  23. ^ Baltimore: The Building of an American City, Sherry H. Olson, Published 1997, Johns Hopkins University Press, Baltimore (Md.), ISBN 0-8018-5640-X, p. 248.
  24. ^ Puleo, Stephen (2004). Dark Tide: The Great Boston Molasses Flood of 1919. Beacon Press. ISBN 0-8070-5021-0.
  25. ^ "SB 721- CHAPTERED". leginfo.legislature.ca.gov. Retrieved 15 January 2025.
  26. ^ gh, amir (18 December 2024). "California Balcony Building Code Updates 2025 - DrBalcony". Retrieved 15 January 2025.cite web: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  27. ^ "Residential Code Status | The Building Codes Assistance Project". bcapcodes.org. 12 November 2015. Retrieved 11 September 2018.
[edit]
  • IAPMO Website
  • IAPMO Codes Website

 

Suspended slab under construction, with the formwork still in place
Suspended slab formwork and rebar in place, ready for concrete pour.

A concrete slab is a common structural element of modern buildings, consisting of a flat, horizontal surface made of cast concrete. Steel-reinforced slabs, typically between 100 and 500 mm thick, are most often used to construct floors and ceilings, while thinner mud slabs may be used for exterior paving ( see below).[1][2]

In many domestic and industrial buildings, a thick concrete slab supported on foundations or directly on the subsoil, is used to construct the ground floor. These slabs are generally classified as ground-bearing or suspended. A slab is ground-bearing if it rests directly on the foundation, otherwise the slab is suspended.[3] For multi-story buildings, there are several common slab designs (

see § Design for more types):

  • Beam and block, also referred to as rib and block, is mostly used in residential and industrial applications. This slab type is made up of pre-stressed beams and hollow blocks and are temporarily propped until set, typically after 21 days.[4]
  • A hollow core slab which is precast and installed on site with a crane
  • In high rise buildings and skyscrapers, thinner, pre-cast concrete slabs are slung between the steel frames to form the floors and ceilings on each level. Cast in-situ slabs are used in high rise buildings and large shopping complexes as well as houses. These in-situ slabs are cast on site using shutters and reinforced steel.

On technical drawings, reinforced concrete slabs are often abbreviated to "r.c.c. slab" or simply "r.c.". Calculations and drawings are often done by structural engineers in CAD software.

Thermal performance

[edit]

Energy efficiency has become a primary concern for the construction of new buildings, and the prevalence of concrete slabs calls for careful consideration of its thermal properties in order to minimise wasted energy.[5] Concrete has similar thermal properties to masonry products, in that it has a relatively high thermal mass and is a good conductor of heat.

In some special cases, the thermal properties of concrete have been employed, for example as a heatsink in nuclear power plants or a thermal buffer in industrial freezers.[6]

Thermal conductivity

[edit]

Thermal conductivity of a concrete slab indicates the rate of heat transfer through the solid mass by conduction, usually in regard to heat transfer to or from the ground. The coefficient of thermal conductivity, k, is proportional to density of the concrete, among other factors.[5] The primary influences on conductivity are moisture content, type of aggregate, type of cement, constituent proportions, and temperature. These various factors complicate the theoretical evaluation of a k-value, since each component has a different conductivity when isolated, and the position and proportion of each components affects the overall conductivity. To simplify this, particles of aggregate may be considered to be suspended in the homogeneous cement. Campbell-Allen and Thorne (1963) derived a formula for the theoretical thermal conductivity of concrete.[6] In practice this formula is rarely applied, but remains relevant for theoretical use. Subsequently, Valore (1980) developed another formula in terms of overall density.[7] However, this study concerned hollow concrete blocks and its results are unverified for concrete slabs.

The actual value of k varies significantly in practice, and is usually between 0.8 and 2.0 W m−1 K−1.[8] This is relatively high when compared to other materials, for example the conductivity of wood may be as low as 0.04 W m−1 K−1. One way of mitigating the effects of thermal conduction is to introduce insulation (

see § Insulation).

Thermal mass

[edit]

The second consideration is the high thermal mass of concrete slabs, which applies similarly to walls and floors, or wherever concrete is used within the thermal envelope. Concrete has a relatively high thermal mass, meaning that it takes a long time to respond to changes in ambient temperature.[9] This is a disadvantage when rooms are heated intermittently and require a quick response, as it takes longer to warm the entire building, including the slab. However, the high thermal mass is an advantage in climates with large daily temperature swings, where the slab acts as a regulator, keeping the building cool by day and warm by night.

Typically concrete slabs perform better than implied by their R-value.[5] The R-value does not consider thermal mass, since it is tested under constant temperature conditions. Thus, when a concrete slab is subjected to fluctuating temperatures, it will respond more slowly to these changes and in many cases increase the efficiency of a building.[5] In reality, there are many factors which contribute to the effect of thermal mass, including the depth and composition of the slab, as well as other properties of the building such as orientation and windows.

Thermal mass is also related to thermal diffusivity, heat capacity and insulation. Concrete has low thermal diffusivity, high heat capacity, and its thermal mass is negatively affected by insulation (e.g. carpet).[5]

Insulation

[edit]

Without insulation, concrete slabs cast directly on the ground can cause a significant amount of extraneous energy transfer by conduction, resulting in either lost heat or unwanted heat. In modern construction, concrete slabs are usually cast above a layer of insulation such as expanded polystyrene, and the slab may contain underfloor heating pipes.[10] However, there are still uses for a slab that is not insulated, for example in outbuildings which are not heated or cooled to room temperature (

see § Mud slabs). In these cases, casting the slab directly onto a substrate of aggregate will maintain the slab near the temperature of the substrate throughout the year, and can prevent both freezing and overheating.

A common type of insulated slab is the beam and block system (mentioned above) which is modified by replacing concrete blocks with expanded polystyrene blocks.[11] This not only allows for better insulation but decreases the weight of slab which has a positive effect on load bearing walls and foundations.

Formwork set for concrete pour.
Concrete poured into formwork. This slab is ground-bearing and reinforced with steel rebar.

Design

[edit]

Ground-bearing slabs

[edit]

Ground-bearing slabs, also known as "on-ground" or "slab-on-grade", are commonly used for ground floors on domestic and some commercial applications. It is an economical and quick construction method for sites that have non-reactive soil and little slope.[12]

For ground-bearing slabs, it is important to design the slab around the type of soil, since some soils such as clay are too dynamic to support a slab consistently across its entire area. This results in cracking and deformation, potentially leading to structural failure of any members attached to the floor, such as wall studs.[12]

Levelling the site before pouring concrete is an important step, as sloping ground will cause the concrete to cure unevenly and will result in differential expansion. In some cases, a naturally sloping site may be levelled simply by removing soil from the uphill site. If a site has a more significant grade, it may be a candidate for the "cut and fill" method, where soil from the higher ground is removed, and the lower ground is built up with fill.[13]

In addition to filling the downhill side, this area of the slab may be supported on concrete piers which extend into the ground. In this case, the fill material is less important structurally as the dead weight of the slab is supported by the piers. However, the fill material is still necessary to support the curing concrete and its reinforcement.

There are two common methods of filling - controlled fill and rolled fill.[13]

  • Controlled fill: Fill material is compacted in several layers by a vibrating plate or roller. Sand fills areas up to around 800 mm deep, and clay may be used to fill areas up to 400 mm deep. However, clay is much more reactive than sand, so it should be used sparingly and carefully. Clay must be moist during compaction to homogenise it.[13]
  • Rolled fill: Fill is repeatedly compacted by an excavator, but this method of compaction is less effective than a vibrator or roller. Thus, the regulations on maximum depth are typically stricter.

Proper curing of ground-bearing concrete is necessary to obtain adequate strength. Since these slabs are inevitably poured on-site (rather than precast as some suspended slabs are), it can be difficult to control conditions to optimize the curing process. This is usually aided by a membrane, either plastic (temporary) or a liquid compound (permanent).[14]

Ground-bearing slabs are usually supplemented with some form of reinforcement, often steel rebar. However, in some cases such as concrete roads, it is acceptable to use an unreinforced slab if it is adequately engineered (

see below).

Suspended slabs

[edit]

For a suspended slab, there are a number of designs to improve the strength-to-weight ratio. In all cases the top surface remains flat, and the underside is modulated:

  • A corrugated slab is designed when the concrete is poured into a corrugated steel tray, more commonly called decking. This steel tray improves strength of the slab, and prevents the slab from bending under its own weight. The corrugations run in one direction only.
  • A ribbed slab gives considerably more strength in one direction. This is achieved with concrete beams bearing load between piers or columns, and thinner, integral ribs in the perpendicular direction. An analogy in carpentry would be a subfloor of bearers and joists. Ribbed slabs have higher load ratings than corrugated or flat slabs, but are inferior to waffle slabs.[15]
  • A waffle slab gives added strength in both directions using a matrix of recessed segments beneath the slab.[16] This is the same principle used in the ground-bearing version, the waffle slab foundation. Waffle slabs are usually deeper than ribbed slabs of equivalent strength, and are heavier hence require stronger foundations. However, they provide increased mechanical strength in two dimensions, a characteristic important for vibration resistance and soil movement.[17]
The exposed underside of a waffle slab used in a multi-storey building

Unreinforced slabs

[edit]

Unreinforced or "plain"[18] slabs are becoming rare and have limited practical applications, with one exception being the mud slab (

see below). They were once common in the US, but the economic value of reinforced ground-bearing slabs has become more appealing for many engineers.[10] Without reinforcement, the entire load on these slabs is supported by the strength of the concrete, which becomes a vital factor. As a result, any stress induced by a load, static or dynamic, must be within the limit of the concrete's flexural strength to prevent cracking.[19] Since unreinforced concrete is relatively very weak in tension, it is important to consider the effects of tensile stress caused by reactive soil, wind uplift, thermal expansion, and cracking.[20] One of the most common applications for unreinforced slabs is in concrete roads.

Mud slabs

[edit]

Mud slabs, also known as rat slabs, are thinner than the more common suspended or ground-bearing slabs (usually 50 to 150 mm), and usually contain no reinforcement.[21] This makes them economical and easy to install for temporary or low-usage purposes such as subfloors, crawlspaces, pathways, paving, and levelling surfaces.[22] In general, they may be used for any application which requires a flat, clean surface. This includes use as a base or "sub-slab" for a larger structural slab. On uneven or steep surfaces, this preparatory measure is necessary to provide a flat surface on which to install rebar and waterproofing membranes.[10] In this application, a mud slab also prevents the plastic bar chairs from sinking into soft topsoil which can cause spalling due to incomplete coverage of the steel. Sometimes a mud slab may be a substitute for coarse aggregate. Mud slabs typically have a moderately rough surface, finished with a float.[10]

Substrate and rebar prepared for pouring a mud slab

Axes of support

[edit]

One-way slabs

[edit]

A one-way slab has moment-resisting reinforcement only in its short axis, and is used when the moment in the long axis is negligible.[23] Such designs include corrugated slabs and ribbed slabs. Non-reinforced slabs may also be considered one-way if they are supported on only two opposite sides (i.e. they are supported in one axis). A one-way reinforced slab may be stronger than a two-way non-reinforced slab, depending on the type of load.

The calculation of reinforcement requirements for a one-way slab can be extremely tedious and time-consuming, and one can never be completely certain of the best design.[citation needed] Even minor changes to the project can necessitate recalculation of the reinforcement requirements. There are many factors to consider during the structural structure design of one-way slabs, including:

  • Load calculations
  • Bending moment calculation
  • Acceptable depth of flexure and deflection
  • Type and distribution of reinforcing steel

Two-way slabs

[edit]

A two-way slab has moment resisting reinforcement in both directions.[24] This may be implemented due to application requirements such as heavy loading, vibration resistance, clearance below the slab, or other factors. However, an important characteristic governing the requirement of a two-way slab is the ratio of the two horizontal lengths. If where is the short dimension and is the long dimension, then moment in both directions should be considered in design.[25] In other words, if the axial ratio is greater than two, a two-way slab is required.

A non-reinforced slab is two-way if it is supported in both horizontal axes.

Construction

[edit]

A concrete slab may be prefabricated (precast), or constructed on site.

Prefabricated

[edit]

Prefabricated concrete slabs are built in a factory and transported to the site, ready to be lowered into place between steel or concrete beams. They may be pre-stressed (in the factory), post-stressed (on site), or unstressed.[10] It is vital that the wall supporting structure is built to the correct dimensions, or the slabs may not fit.

On-site

[edit]

On-site concrete slabs are built on the building site using formwork, a type of boxing into which the wet concrete is poured. If the slab is to be reinforced, the rebars, or metal bars, are positioned within the formwork before the concrete is poured in.[26] Plastic-tipped metal or plastic bar chairs, are used to hold the rebar away from the bottom and sides of the form-work, so that when the concrete sets it completely envelops the reinforcement. This concept is known as concrete cover. For a ground-bearing slab, the formwork may consist only of side walls pushed into the ground. For a suspended slab, the formwork is shaped like a tray, often supported by a temporary scaffold until the concrete sets.

The formwork is commonly built from wooden planks and boards, plastic, or steel. On commercial building sites, plastic and steel are gaining popularity as they save labour.[27] On low-budget or small-scale jobs, for instance when laying a concrete garden path, wooden planks are very common. After the concrete has set the wood may be removed.

Formwork can also be permanent, and remain in situ post concrete pour. For large slabs or paths that are poured in sections, this permanent formwork can then also act as isolation joints within concrete slabs to reduce the potential for cracking due to concrete expansion or movement.

In some cases formwork is not necessary. For instance, a ground slab surrounded by dense soil, brick or block foundation walls, where the walls act as the sides of the tray and hardcore (rubble) acts as the base.

See also

[edit]
  • Shallow foundation (Commonly used for ground-bearing slabs)
  • Hollow-core slab (Voided slab, one-way spanning)
  • Beam and block (voided slab, one way spanning)
  • Voided biaxial slab (Voided slab, two-way spanning)
  • Formwork
  • Precast concrete
  • Reinforced concrete
  • Rebar
  • Concrete cover

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Garber, G. Design and Construction of Concrete Floors. 2nd ed. Amsterdam: Butterworth-Heinemann, 2006. 47. Print.
  2. ^ Duncan, Chester I. Soils and Foundations for Architects and Engineers. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1992. 299. Print.
  3. ^ "Ground slabs - Introduction". www.dlsweb.rmit.edu.au. Archived from the original on 2019-11-18. Retrieved 2017-12-07.
  4. ^ "What is a rib and block slab?". www.royalconcreteslabs.co.za. Royal concrete slabs.
  5. ^ a b c d e Cavanaugh, Kevin; et al. (2002). Guide to Thermal Properties of Concrete and Masonry Systems: Reported by ACI Committee 122. American Concrete Institute.
  6. ^ a b Campbell-Allen, D.; Thorne, C.P. (March 1963). "The thermal conductivity of concrete". Magazine of Concrete Research. 15 (43): 39–48. doi:10.1680/macr.1963.15.43.39. UDC 691.32.001:536.21:691.322.
  7. ^ Valore, R.C. Jr. (February 1980). "Calculation of U-values of Hollow Concrete Masonry". Concrete International. 2: 40–63.
  8. ^ Young, Hugh D. (1992). "Table 15.5". University Physics (7th ed.). Addison Wesley. ISBN 0201529815.
  9. ^ Sabnis, Gajanan M.; Juhl, William (2016). "Chapter 4: Sustainability through Thermal Mass of Concrete". Green Building with Concrete: Sustainable Design and Construction (2nd ed.). Taylor & Francis Group. ISBN 978-1-4987-0411-3.
  10. ^ a b c d e Garber, George (2006). Design and Construction of Concrete Floors (2nd ed.). Amsterdam: Butterworth-Heinemann. ISBN 978-0-7506-6656-5.
  11. ^ "What is a polystyrene concrete slab?". www.royalconcreteslabs.co.za. Royal concrete slabs.
  12. ^ a b McKinney, Arthur W.; et al. (2006). Design of Slabs-on-Ground: Reported by ACI Committee 360 (PDF). American Concrete Institute. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-05-08. Retrieved 2019-04-04.
  13. ^ a b c Staines, Allan (2014). The Australian House Building Manual. Pinedale Press. pp. 40–41. ISBN 978-1-875217-07-6.
  14. ^ "Concrete in Practice 11 - Curing In-Place Concrete" (PDF). Engineering.com. National Ready Mixed Concrete Association. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 April 2019. Retrieved 4 April 2019.
  15. ^ "Ribbed Slabs Datasheet" (PDF). Kaset Kalip. Archived from the original (PDF) on 29 March 2018. Retrieved 4 April 2019.
  16. ^ "Ribbed and waffle slabs". www.concretecentre.com. Retrieved 2019-04-04.
  17. ^ Concrete Framed Buildings: A Guide to Design and Construction. MPA The Concrete Centre. 2016. ISBN 978-1-904818-40-3.
  18. ^ Garrison, Tim (19 February 2014). "Clearing the confusion on 'plain concrete'". Civil & Structural Engineer. Archived from the original on 8 May 2019. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  19. ^ Walker, Wayne. "Reinforcement for slabs on ground". Concrete Construction. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  20. ^ "Rupture depth of an unreinforced concrete slab on grade" (PDF). Aluminium Association of Florida, Inc. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-09-26. Retrieved 2019-05-08.
  21. ^ Arcoma, Peter. "What is a mud slab?". Builder-Questions.com. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  22. ^ Postma, Mark; et al. "Floor Slabs". Whole Building Design Guide. National Institute of Building Sciences. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  23. ^ Gilbert, R. I. (1980). UNICIV Report 211 (PDF). University of New South Wales.
  24. ^ Prieto-Portar, L. A. (2008). EGN-5439 The Design of Tall Buildings; Lecture #14: The Design of Reinforced Concrete Slabs (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2017-08-29. Retrieved 2019-04-04.
  25. ^ "What is the difference between one way and two way slab?". Basic Civil Engineering. 16 June 2019. Retrieved 8 July 2019.
  26. ^ Concrete Basics: A Guide to Concrete Practice (6th ed.). Cement Concrete & Aggregates Australia. 2004. p. 53.
  27. ^ Nemati, Kamran M. (2005). "Temporary Structures: Formwork for Concrete" (PDF). Tokyo Institute of Technology. Archived from the original (PDF) on 12 July 2018. Retrieved 4 April 2019.
[edit]
  • Concrete Basics: A Guide to Concrete Practice
  • Super Insulated Slab Foundations
  • Design of Slabs on Ground Archived 2021-05-08 at the Wayback Machine

 

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Reviews for


Jeffery James

(5)

Very happy with my experience. They were prompt and followed through, and very helpful in fixing the crack in my foundation.

Sarah McNeily

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USS was excellent. They are honest, straightforward, trustworthy, and conscientious. They thoughtfully removed the flowers and flower bulbs to dig where they needed in the yard, replanted said flowers and spread the extra dirt to fill in an area of the yard. We've had other services from different companies and our yard was really a mess after. They kept the job site meticulously clean. The crew was on time and friendly. I'd recommend them any day! Thanks to Jessie and crew.

Jim de Leon

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It was a pleasure to work with Rick and his crew. From the beginning, Rick listened to my concerns and what I wished to accomplish. Out of the 6 contractors that quoted the project, Rick seemed the MOST willing to accommodate my wishes. His pricing was definitely more than fair as well. I had 10 push piers installed to stabilize and lift an addition of my house. The project commenced at the date that Rick had disclosed initially and it was completed within the same time period expected (based on Rick's original assessment). The crew was well informed, courteous, and hard working. They were not loud (even while equipment was being utilized) and were well spoken. My neighbors were very impressed on how polite they were when they entered / exited my property (saying hello or good morning each day when they crossed paths). You can tell they care about the customer concerns. They ensured that the property would be put back as clean as possible by placing MANY sheets of plywood down prior to excavating. They compacted the dirt back in the holes extremely well to avoid large stock piles of soils. All the while, the main office was calling me to discuss updates and expectations of completion. They provided waivers of lien, certificates of insurance, properly acquired permits, and JULIE locates. From a construction background, I can tell you that I did not see any flaws in the way they operated and this an extremely professional company. The pictures attached show the push piers added to the foundation (pictures 1, 2 & 3), the amount of excavation (picture 4), and the restoration after dirt was placed back in the pits and compacted (pictures 5, 6 & 7). Please notice that they also sealed two large cracks and steel plated these cracks from expanding further (which you can see under my sliding glass door). I, as well as my wife, are extremely happy that we chose United Structural Systems for our contractor. I would happily tell any of my friends and family to use this contractor should the opportunity arise!

Chris Abplanalp

(5)

USS did an amazing job on my underpinning on my house, they were also very courteous to the proximity of my property line next to my neighbor. They kept things in order with all the dirt/mud they had to excavate. They were done exactly in the timeframe they indicated, and the contract was very details oriented with drawings of what would be done. Only thing that would have been nice, is they left my concrete a little muddy with boot prints but again, all-in-all a great job

Dave Kari

(5)

What a fantastic experience! Owner Rick Thomas is a trustworthy professional. Nick and the crew are hard working, knowledgeable and experienced. I interviewed every company in the area, big and small. A homeowner never wants to hear that they have foundation issues. Out of every company, I trusted USS the most, and it paid off in the end. Highly recommend.

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