Identifying Common Issues and Symptoms of residential foundations

Identifying Common Issues and Symptoms of residential foundations

* Understanding Different Types of Residential Foundations

* Understanding Different Types of Residential Foundations


Okay, let's talk about foundations because, honestly, who *really* thinks about them until something goes wrong? Advanced monitoring tools improve the accuracy of foundation repair assessments foundation repair service near me weep hole. But understanding the basics is super important when it comes to spotting potential problems. We're talking about the very thing your house sits on, so knowing the different types and how they behave is key to catching issues early.

Think of it like this: imagine you're building a Lego house (remember those?). The base you choose – a flat plate, a raised platform, whatever – dictates how stable the whole thing is. Residential foundations are the same principle, just on a much grander (and more expensive!) scale.

There are a few main types you'll encounter. First, there's the *slab foundation*. This is basically a big concrete pad poured directly onto the ground. It's common in warmer climates where the ground doesn't freeze too deeply. It's relatively inexpensive to build, but when things go wrong, like cracks developing, it can be tricky and costly to repair because everything sits right on top of it.

Then you have *crawl space foundations*. These are like little miniature basements, offering a buffer zone between your living space and the ground. You usually see a short concrete or block wall around the perimeter, creating a space you can (sometimes barely!) crawl through. This gives you access to plumbing and wiring, which is handy, but it also makes them susceptible to moisture problems and pests.

Finally, there's the *basement foundation*. These are full-height walls creating a usable space below ground. Basements are great for extra living area or storage, but they're also the most prone to water issues and can be expensive to build and maintain. They're common in areas with colder climates where the foundation needs to be below the frost line.

Understanding which type of foundation your house has is the first step. Because the issues and symptoms you'll see will vary depending on the design. A slab foundation crack might present differently than a crack in a basement wall, and the underlying causes could be different too. So, before you even start looking for problems, know your foundation type. It's like having the right map before you start your journey – it'll make the whole process a lot smoother.

* Recognizing Warning Signs: Cracks in Walls and Foundation


Okay, so let's talk about cracks. Specifically, the kind you really don't want to see in your house – the ones in your walls and foundation. We're not talking about hairline cracks from paint drying; we're talking about the kind that whisper, or sometimes shout, that your foundation might be having a bad day.

Identifying these warning signs early can save you a massive headache (and a ton of money) later on. We're not trying to make you paranoid, but it's good to be aware. Think of it like this: your foundation is the backbone of your house. If it's compromised, everything above it is going to feel the strain.

So, what are we looking for? Well, first, pay attention to the *type* of crack. Are they thin, hairline cracks that look like someone drew on the wall with a pencil? Those are often just cosmetic and due to normal settling. But if you see cracks that are wider than, say, an eighth of an inch, that's a potential red flag. Especially if they're jagged, stair-step shaped, or getting wider over time. Get a pencil and mark the ends of the crack, write the date, and observe if it is getting longer.

Location matters too. Cracks in your foundation walls, especially near corners or around windows and doors, are often more concerning than cracks in the middle of a large, uninterrupted wall. Pay special attention to horizontal cracks; these can indicate serious structural issues related to soil pressure pushing against the foundation. Vertical cracks aren't always as bad, but they still warrant a closer look.

Inside the house, look for corresponding cracks in interior walls, especially above doorways or windows. Doors and windows that are suddenly hard to open or close can also be a sign of foundation movement. Also, be sure to look for cracks in the basement floor.

Finally, don't ignore water. Cracks can be a pathway for water to seep into your basement or crawl space, leading to mold and further damage. If you see water stains or efflorescence (that white, powdery stuff) near cracks, it's a sign that water intrusion is already happening.

The bottom line? If you're seeing cracks that are wider than a hairline, growing over time, located in concerning areas, or accompanied by other symptoms like sticking doors or water intrusion, it's time to call in a professional. A structural engineer or foundation specialist can assess the situation, determine the cause of the cracks, and recommend the appropriate repairs. It's always better to be safe than sorry when it comes to the stability of your home.

* Spotting Uneven Floors and Doors/Windows That Stick


Okay, so you're walking around your house, maybe just going about your day, and something feels a little...off. You might not be able to put your finger on it right away, but little things can be whispering that your foundation might be having a bit of a grumble. Think about it: have you noticed a spot where your coffee cup seems to want to slide off the table no matter where you put it? Or maybe you're having a wrestling match with that one bedroom door every time you try to close it?

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These seemingly small annoyances, like spotting uneven floors and doors or windows that stick, can actually be early warning signs that something's going on beneath your feet with your foundation.

Uneven floors are a pretty clear indicator. It might not be a dramatic slope, but a subtle dip or rise in a certain area can mean that the foundation is settling unevenly. This uneven settling puts stress on the framing of your house, causing those floors to shift. And those doors and windows? They're framed into that same structure. When the foundation shifts, the frames can warp and distort, making doors stick, windows hard to open or close, or latching mechanisms misalign.

It's easy to dismiss these things as just quirks of an older house, or maybe just chalk it up to humidity. And sometimes, that might be the case! But it's definitely worth investigating. A single sticking door might be no big deal, but several sticking doors, combined with a noticeable slope in the floor, are red flags waving that are saying, "Hey, pay attention to me!" It's like your house is trying to tell you something. Addressing these issues early on can potentially save you from bigger, more expensive problems down the road. So, keep an eye out for those subtle clues – your house might be trying to talk to you.

* Identifying Water Intrusion and Drainage Problems


Identifying Water Intrusion and Draining Problems is a crucial step in maintaining a healthy and stable residential foundation. Left unchecked, water can become a foundation's worst enemy, leading to a host of serious and costly issues. The good news is that with a little awareness, you can often spot the tell-tale signs of water intrusion and drainage problems before they escalate.

Think of your foundation as the unsung hero of your home. It's constantly working to support everything above it. But like any hero, it has vulnerabilities, and water is a major one. Common symptoms of trouble often begin subtly. You might notice dampness or musty odors in your basement or crawl space.

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These are early warning signs that excess moisture is present. Keep an eye out for efflorescence, that white, powdery substance that appears on concrete or brick walls. It's basically salt deposits left behind by evaporating water, signaling that water is seeping through the foundation.

Cracks, whether hairline or more substantial, are another key indicator. While not all cracks are created equal, any crack can become a pathway for water intrusion. Pay close attention to cracks that are wider at the top than the bottom, as these can indicate settling or structural issues exacerbated by water damage.

Outside your home, look at the landscaping. Is water pooling near the foundation after rainfall? Are your gutters clogged or damaged, causing water to overflow and saturate the soil around the foundation? Are downspouts directing water far enough away from the house? Improper grading, where the ground slopes towards the foundation instead of away from it, is a common culprit, channeling rainwater directly towards the foundation walls.

Standing water, vegetation growing too close to the foundation, and even erosion of the soil around the foundation can all contribute to water-related problems. Addressing these drainage issues promptly, by cleaning gutters, extending downspouts, or re-grading the landscape, can often prevent more serious foundation damage down the line. By being proactive and recognizing these common issues and symptoms, you can protect your home's foundation and avoid potentially devastating consequences.

* Evaluating Soil Issues Affecting Foundation Stability


Okay, so you're looking at residential foundations, right? And you want to figure out what's going wrong. One of the biggest culprits, and often sneaky ones at that, is soil. We're talking about evaluating soil issues affecting foundation stability. It sounds technical, but basically, it's about understanding how the ground beneath your house can be a total jerk and mess everything up.

Think of it like this: your foundation is sitting on something. That something is soil. And soil isn't just dirt. It's a complex mix of minerals, organic matter, water, and air. Any significant change in that mix can put a lot of stress on your foundation.

For example, expansive clay soils are notorious for causing problems. These soils are like sponges. When they get wet, they swell up, pushing against the foundation walls. When they dry out, they shrink, pulling away from the foundation. Over time, this constant expansion and contraction can lead to cracks, bowing walls, and even a sinking foundation. That's a big deal!

Then you've got issues like soil erosion. Rainwater can wash away soil around the foundation, especially if the grading isn't right. This can leave the foundation exposed and vulnerable, weakening its support. Poor drainage is another common problem. If water isn't properly directed away from the house, it can saturate the soil, leading to hydrostatic pressure against the foundation walls and causing them to leak or even collapse.

And let's not forget about soil compaction. If the soil around your foundation wasn't properly compacted during construction, or if it's been disturbed by things like tree roots or utility work, it can settle unevenly. This uneven settling can cause the foundation to crack and shift.

So, how do you know if soil issues are affecting your foundation? Look for the telltale signs: cracks in the walls, especially stair-step cracks; doors and windows that are sticking or difficult to open; floors that are sloping or uneven; and water in the basement or crawl space. These are all red flags that something's not right with the soil beneath your feet.

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If you see these, it's time to call in a foundation specialist who can properly evaluate the soil conditions and recommend the best course of action. Ignoring it will only make the problem worse, and a small fix now is much cheaper than a complete foundation replacement later!

* The Role of Professional Inspections in Early Detection


Okay, let's talk about your house's foundation. It's easy to forget it's even there, right? Buried under all the pretty landscaping and the comfy living space. But that foundation is the silent workhorse, the bedrock of your entire home. And just like any vital system, it can develop problems. That's where professional inspections come in, acting as early warning systems for potential foundation woes.

Think of it like this: you wouldn't wait until your car engine is smoking to get it checked out, would you? You'd take it in for regular maintenance to catch little issues before they become huge, expensive repairs. The same principle applies to your foundation. A trained professional inspector, someone with experience and a keen eye, can spot subtle signs that might go completely unnoticed by the average homeowner. We're talking things like hairline cracks in the foundation walls, uneven floors, doors that stick, or windows that are hard to open. Individually, these might seem like minor annoyances. But collectively, they can paint a much bigger picture of underlying foundation distress.

These early inspections aren't just about identifying problems; they're about understanding the *cause* of those problems. Is it poor drainage around the house? Expansive soil that's constantly shifting with moisture levels? Tree roots encroaching on the foundation? Knowing the root cause is crucial for developing an effective and long-lasting solution. A professional can assess these factors and provide recommendations tailored to your specific situation.

Ignoring these early warning signs can be costly. What starts as a small crack can widen over time, leading to structural instability, water damage, and a significant decrease in your home's value. Addressing foundation issues early on is almost always more affordable and less disruptive than dealing with a major foundation failure down the road.

So, while you might be tempted to save a few bucks and skip the inspection, remember that it's an investment in the long-term health and stability of your home. A professional inspection provides peace of mind, and more importantly, a proactive approach to protecting the foundation that literally supports everything you hold dear. It's about being smart, being informed, and being a responsible homeowner.



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Citations and other links

Experts Recommend Early Detection of Foundation Problems to Avoid Costly Repairs

Experts Recommend Early Detection of Foundation Problems to Avoid Costly Repairs

Experts are constantly reminding us about the importance of catching foundation problems early, and while it might seem like an unnecessary expense upfront, the truth is that early detection offers significant long-term cost savings.. Think of it like this: a small crack in your foundation is like a tiny leak in your roof.

Posted by on 2025-02-25

Survey Reveals Most Common Foundation Issues Affecting Homeowners Nationwide

Survey Reveals Most Common Foundation Issues Affecting Homeowners Nationwide

Okay, so you've got foundation problems.. Nobody wants to hear that, right?

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Research Shows How Tree Root Growth Contributes to Residential Foundation Cracks

Research Shows How Tree Root Growth Contributes to Residential Foundation Cracks

Okay, so you've got tree roots messing with your foundation.. That's a bummer, but you're not alone.

Posted by on 2025-02-25

Suspended slab under construction, with the formwork still in place
Suspended slab formwork and rebar in place, ready for concrete pour.

A concrete slab is a common structural element of modern buildings, consisting of a flat, horizontal surface made of cast concrete. Steel-reinforced slabs, typically between 100 and 500 mm thick, are most often used to construct floors and ceilings, while thinner mud slabs may be used for exterior paving ( see below).[1][2]

In many domestic and industrial buildings, a thick concrete slab supported on foundations or directly on the subsoil, is used to construct the ground floor. These slabs are generally classified as ground-bearing or suspended. A slab is ground-bearing if it rests directly on the foundation, otherwise the slab is suspended.[3] For multi-story buildings, there are several common slab designs (

see § Design for more types):

  • Beam and block, also referred to as rib and block, is mostly used in residential and industrial applications. This slab type is made up of pre-stressed beams and hollow blocks and are temporarily propped until set, typically after 21 days.[4]
  • A hollow core slab which is precast and installed on site with a crane
  • In high rise buildings and skyscrapers, thinner, pre-cast concrete slabs are slung between the steel frames to form the floors and ceilings on each level. Cast in-situ slabs are used in high rise buildings and large shopping complexes as well as houses. These in-situ slabs are cast on site using shutters and reinforced steel.

On technical drawings, reinforced concrete slabs are often abbreviated to "r.c.c. slab" or simply "r.c.". Calculations and drawings are often done by structural engineers in CAD software.

Thermal performance

[edit]

Energy efficiency has become a primary concern for the construction of new buildings, and the prevalence of concrete slabs calls for careful consideration of its thermal properties in order to minimise wasted energy.[5] Concrete has similar thermal properties to masonry products, in that it has a relatively high thermal mass and is a good conductor of heat.

In some special cases, the thermal properties of concrete have been employed, for example as a heatsink in nuclear power plants or a thermal buffer in industrial freezers.[6]

Thermal conductivity

[edit]

Thermal conductivity of a concrete slab indicates the rate of heat transfer through the solid mass by conduction, usually in regard to heat transfer to or from the ground. The coefficient of thermal conductivity, k, is proportional to density of the concrete, among other factors.[5] The primary influences on conductivity are moisture content, type of aggregate, type of cement, constituent proportions, and temperature. These various factors complicate the theoretical evaluation of a k-value, since each component has a different conductivity when isolated, and the position and proportion of each components affects the overall conductivity. To simplify this, particles of aggregate may be considered to be suspended in the homogeneous cement. Campbell-Allen and Thorne (1963) derived a formula for the theoretical thermal conductivity of concrete.[6] In practice this formula is rarely applied, but remains relevant for theoretical use. Subsequently, Valore (1980) developed another formula in terms of overall density.[7] However, this study concerned hollow concrete blocks and its results are unverified for concrete slabs.

The actual value of k varies significantly in practice, and is usually between 0.8 and 2.0 W m−1 K−1.[8] This is relatively high when compared to other materials, for example the conductivity of wood may be as low as 0.04 W m−1 K−1. One way of mitigating the effects of thermal conduction is to introduce insulation (

see § Insulation).

Thermal mass

[edit]

The second consideration is the high thermal mass of concrete slabs, which applies similarly to walls and floors, or wherever concrete is used within the thermal envelope. Concrete has a relatively high thermal mass, meaning that it takes a long time to respond to changes in ambient temperature.[9] This is a disadvantage when rooms are heated intermittently and require a quick response, as it takes longer to warm the entire building, including the slab. However, the high thermal mass is an advantage in climates with large daily temperature swings, where the slab acts as a regulator, keeping the building cool by day and warm by night.

Typically concrete slabs perform better than implied by their R-value.[5] The R-value does not consider thermal mass, since it is tested under constant temperature conditions. Thus, when a concrete slab is subjected to fluctuating temperatures, it will respond more slowly to these changes and in many cases increase the efficiency of a building.[5] In reality, there are many factors which contribute to the effect of thermal mass, including the depth and composition of the slab, as well as other properties of the building such as orientation and windows.

Thermal mass is also related to thermal diffusivity, heat capacity and insulation. Concrete has low thermal diffusivity, high heat capacity, and its thermal mass is negatively affected by insulation (e.g. carpet).[5]

Insulation

[edit]

Without insulation, concrete slabs cast directly on the ground can cause a significant amount of extraneous energy transfer by conduction, resulting in either lost heat or unwanted heat. In modern construction, concrete slabs are usually cast above a layer of insulation such as expanded polystyrene, and the slab may contain underfloor heating pipes.[10] However, there are still uses for a slab that is not insulated, for example in outbuildings which are not heated or cooled to room temperature (

see § Mud slabs). In these cases, casting the slab directly onto a substrate of aggregate will maintain the slab near the temperature of the substrate throughout the year, and can prevent both freezing and overheating.

A common type of insulated slab is the beam and block system (mentioned above) which is modified by replacing concrete blocks with expanded polystyrene blocks.[11] This not only allows for better insulation but decreases the weight of slab which has a positive effect on load bearing walls and foundations.

Formwork set for concrete pour.
Concrete poured into formwork. This slab is ground-bearing and reinforced with steel rebar.

Design

[edit]

Ground-bearing slabs

[edit]

Ground-bearing slabs, also known as "on-ground" or "slab-on-grade", are commonly used for ground floors on domestic and some commercial applications. It is an economical and quick construction method for sites that have non-reactive soil and little slope.[12]

For ground-bearing slabs, it is important to design the slab around the type of soil, since some soils such as clay are too dynamic to support a slab consistently across its entire area. This results in cracking and deformation, potentially leading to structural failure of any members attached to the floor, such as wall studs.[12]

Levelling the site before pouring concrete is an important step, as sloping ground will cause the concrete to cure unevenly and will result in differential expansion. In some cases, a naturally sloping site may be levelled simply by removing soil from the uphill site. If a site has a more significant grade, it may be a candidate for the "cut and fill" method, where soil from the higher ground is removed, and the lower ground is built up with fill.[13]

In addition to filling the downhill side, this area of the slab may be supported on concrete piers which extend into the ground. In this case, the fill material is less important structurally as the dead weight of the slab is supported by the piers. However, the fill material is still necessary to support the curing concrete and its reinforcement.

There are two common methods of filling - controlled fill and rolled fill.[13]

  • Controlled fill: Fill material is compacted in several layers by a vibrating plate or roller. Sand fills areas up to around 800 mm deep, and clay may be used to fill areas up to 400 mm deep. However, clay is much more reactive than sand, so it should be used sparingly and carefully. Clay must be moist during compaction to homogenise it.[13]
  • Rolled fill: Fill is repeatedly compacted by an excavator, but this method of compaction is less effective than a vibrator or roller. Thus, the regulations on maximum depth are typically stricter.

Proper curing of ground-bearing concrete is necessary to obtain adequate strength. Since these slabs are inevitably poured on-site (rather than precast as some suspended slabs are), it can be difficult to control conditions to optimize the curing process. This is usually aided by a membrane, either plastic (temporary) or a liquid compound (permanent).[14]

Ground-bearing slabs are usually supplemented with some form of reinforcement, often steel rebar. However, in some cases such as concrete roads, it is acceptable to use an unreinforced slab if it is adequately engineered (

see below).

Suspended slabs

[edit]

For a suspended slab, there are a number of designs to improve the strength-to-weight ratio. In all cases the top surface remains flat, and the underside is modulated:

  • A corrugated slab is designed when the concrete is poured into a corrugated steel tray, more commonly called decking. This steel tray improves strength of the slab, and prevents the slab from bending under its own weight. The corrugations run in one direction only.
  • A ribbed slab gives considerably more strength in one direction. This is achieved with concrete beams bearing load between piers or columns, and thinner, integral ribs in the perpendicular direction. An analogy in carpentry would be a subfloor of bearers and joists. Ribbed slabs have higher load ratings than corrugated or flat slabs, but are inferior to waffle slabs.[15]
  • A waffle slab gives added strength in both directions using a matrix of recessed segments beneath the slab.[16] This is the same principle used in the ground-bearing version, the waffle slab foundation. Waffle slabs are usually deeper than ribbed slabs of equivalent strength, and are heavier hence require stronger foundations. However, they provide increased mechanical strength in two dimensions, a characteristic important for vibration resistance and soil movement.[17]
The exposed underside of a waffle slab used in a multi-storey building

Unreinforced slabs

[edit]

Unreinforced or "plain"[18] slabs are becoming rare and have limited practical applications, with one exception being the mud slab (

see below). They were once common in the US, but the economic value of reinforced ground-bearing slabs has become more appealing for many engineers.[10] Without reinforcement, the entire load on these slabs is supported by the strength of the concrete, which becomes a vital factor. As a result, any stress induced by a load, static or dynamic, must be within the limit of the concrete's flexural strength to prevent cracking.[19] Since unreinforced concrete is relatively very weak in tension, it is important to consider the effects of tensile stress caused by reactive soil, wind uplift, thermal expansion, and cracking.[20] One of the most common applications for unreinforced slabs is in concrete roads.

Mud slabs

[edit]

Mud slabs, also known as rat slabs, are thinner than the more common suspended or ground-bearing slabs (usually 50 to 150 mm), and usually contain no reinforcement.[21] This makes them economical and easy to install for temporary or low-usage purposes such as subfloors, crawlspaces, pathways, paving, and levelling surfaces.[22] In general, they may be used for any application which requires a flat, clean surface. This includes use as a base or "sub-slab" for a larger structural slab. On uneven or steep surfaces, this preparatory measure is necessary to provide a flat surface on which to install rebar and waterproofing membranes.[10] In this application, a mud slab also prevents the plastic bar chairs from sinking into soft topsoil which can cause spalling due to incomplete coverage of the steel. Sometimes a mud slab may be a substitute for coarse aggregate. Mud slabs typically have a moderately rough surface, finished with a float.[10]

Substrate and rebar prepared for pouring a mud slab

Axes of support

[edit]

One-way slabs

[edit]

A one-way slab has moment-resisting reinforcement only in its short axis, and is used when the moment in the long axis is negligible.[23] Such designs include corrugated slabs and ribbed slabs. Non-reinforced slabs may also be considered one-way if they are supported on only two opposite sides (i.e. they are supported in one axis). A one-way reinforced slab may be stronger than a two-way non-reinforced slab, depending on the type of load.

The calculation of reinforcement requirements for a one-way slab can be extremely tedious and time-consuming, and one can never be completely certain of the best design.[citation needed] Even minor changes to the project can necessitate recalculation of the reinforcement requirements. There are many factors to consider during the structural structure design of one-way slabs, including:

  • Load calculations
  • Bending moment calculation
  • Acceptable depth of flexure and deflection
  • Type and distribution of reinforcing steel

Two-way slabs

[edit]

A two-way slab has moment resisting reinforcement in both directions.[24] This may be implemented due to application requirements such as heavy loading, vibration resistance, clearance below the slab, or other factors. However, an important characteristic governing the requirement of a two-way slab is the ratio of the two horizontal lengths. If where is the short dimension and is the long dimension, then moment in both directions should be considered in design.[25] In other words, if the axial ratio is greater than two, a two-way slab is required.

A non-reinforced slab is two-way if it is supported in both horizontal axes.

Construction

[edit]

A concrete slab may be prefabricated (precast), or constructed on site.

Prefabricated

[edit]

Prefabricated concrete slabs are built in a factory and transported to the site, ready to be lowered into place between steel or concrete beams. They may be pre-stressed (in the factory), post-stressed (on site), or unstressed.[10] It is vital that the wall supporting structure is built to the correct dimensions, or the slabs may not fit.

On-site

[edit]

On-site concrete slabs are built on the building site using formwork, a type of boxing into which the wet concrete is poured. If the slab is to be reinforced, the rebars, or metal bars, are positioned within the formwork before the concrete is poured in.[26] Plastic-tipped metal or plastic bar chairs, are used to hold the rebar away from the bottom and sides of the form-work, so that when the concrete sets it completely envelops the reinforcement. This concept is known as concrete cover. For a ground-bearing slab, the formwork may consist only of side walls pushed into the ground. For a suspended slab, the formwork is shaped like a tray, often supported by a temporary scaffold until the concrete sets.

The formwork is commonly built from wooden planks and boards, plastic, or steel. On commercial building sites, plastic and steel are gaining popularity as they save labour.[27] On low-budget or small-scale jobs, for instance when laying a concrete garden path, wooden planks are very common. After the concrete has set the wood may be removed.

Formwork can also be permanent, and remain in situ post concrete pour. For large slabs or paths that are poured in sections, this permanent formwork can then also act as isolation joints within concrete slabs to reduce the potential for cracking due to concrete expansion or movement.

In some cases formwork is not necessary. For instance, a ground slab surrounded by dense soil, brick or block foundation walls, where the walls act as the sides of the tray and hardcore (rubble) acts as the base.

See also

[edit]
  • Shallow foundation (Commonly used for ground-bearing slabs)
  • Hollow-core slab (Voided slab, one-way spanning)
  • Beam and block (voided slab, one way spanning)
  • Voided biaxial slab (Voided slab, two-way spanning)
  • Formwork
  • Precast concrete
  • Reinforced concrete
  • Rebar
  • Concrete cover

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Garber, G. Design and Construction of Concrete Floors. 2nd ed. Amsterdam: Butterworth-Heinemann, 2006. 47. Print.
  2. ^ Duncan, Chester I. Soils and Foundations for Architects and Engineers. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1992. 299. Print.
  3. ^ "Ground slabs - Introduction". www.dlsweb.rmit.edu.au. Archived from the original on 2019-11-18. Retrieved 2017-12-07.
  4. ^ "What is a rib and block slab?". www.royalconcreteslabs.co.za. Royal concrete slabs.
  5. ^ a b c d e Cavanaugh, Kevin; et al. (2002). Guide to Thermal Properties of Concrete and Masonry Systems: Reported by ACI Committee 122. American Concrete Institute.
  6. ^ a b Campbell-Allen, D.; Thorne, C.P. (March 1963). "The thermal conductivity of concrete". Magazine of Concrete Research. 15 (43): 39–48. doi:10.1680/macr.1963.15.43.39. UDC 691.32.001:536.21:691.322.
  7. ^ Valore, R.C. Jr. (February 1980). "Calculation of U-values of Hollow Concrete Masonry". Concrete International. 2: 40–63.
  8. ^ Young, Hugh D. (1992). "Table 15.5". University Physics (7th ed.). Addison Wesley. ISBN 0201529815.
  9. ^ Sabnis, Gajanan M.; Juhl, William (2016). "Chapter 4: Sustainability through Thermal Mass of Concrete". Green Building with Concrete: Sustainable Design and Construction (2nd ed.). Taylor & Francis Group. ISBN 978-1-4987-0411-3.
  10. ^ a b c d e Garber, George (2006). Design and Construction of Concrete Floors (2nd ed.). Amsterdam: Butterworth-Heinemann. ISBN 978-0-7506-6656-5.
  11. ^ "What is a polystyrene concrete slab?". www.royalconcreteslabs.co.za. Royal concrete slabs.
  12. ^ a b McKinney, Arthur W.; et al. (2006). Design of Slabs-on-Ground: Reported by ACI Committee 360 (PDF). American Concrete Institute. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-05-08. Retrieved 2019-04-04.
  13. ^ a b c Staines, Allan (2014). The Australian House Building Manual. Pinedale Press. pp. 40–41. ISBN 978-1-875217-07-6.
  14. ^ "Concrete in Practice 11 - Curing In-Place Concrete" (PDF). Engineering.com. National Ready Mixed Concrete Association. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 April 2019. Retrieved 4 April 2019.
  15. ^ "Ribbed Slabs Datasheet" (PDF). Kaset Kalip. Archived from the original (PDF) on 29 March 2018. Retrieved 4 April 2019.
  16. ^ "Ribbed and waffle slabs". www.concretecentre.com. Retrieved 2019-04-04.
  17. ^ Concrete Framed Buildings: A Guide to Design and Construction. MPA The Concrete Centre. 2016. ISBN 978-1-904818-40-3.
  18. ^ Garrison, Tim (19 February 2014). "Clearing the confusion on 'plain concrete'". Civil & Structural Engineer. Archived from the original on 8 May 2019. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  19. ^ Walker, Wayne. "Reinforcement for slabs on ground". Concrete Construction. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  20. ^ "Rupture depth of an unreinforced concrete slab on grade" (PDF). Aluminium Association of Florida, Inc. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-09-26. Retrieved 2019-05-08.
  21. ^ Arcoma, Peter. "What is a mud slab?". Builder-Questions.com. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  22. ^ Postma, Mark; et al. "Floor Slabs". Whole Building Design Guide. National Institute of Building Sciences. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  23. ^ Gilbert, R. I. (1980). UNICIV Report 211 (PDF). University of New South Wales.
  24. ^ Prieto-Portar, L. A. (2008). EGN-5439 The Design of Tall Buildings; Lecture #14: The Design of Reinforced Concrete Slabs (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2017-08-29. Retrieved 2019-04-04.
  25. ^ "What is the difference between one way and two way slab?". Basic Civil Engineering. 16 June 2019. Retrieved 8 July 2019.
  26. ^ Concrete Basics: A Guide to Concrete Practice (6th ed.). Cement Concrete & Aggregates Australia. 2004. p. 53.
  27. ^ Nemati, Kamran M. (2005). "Temporary Structures: Formwork for Concrete" (PDF). Tokyo Institute of Technology. Archived from the original (PDF) on 12 July 2018. Retrieved 4 April 2019.
[edit]
  • Concrete Basics: A Guide to Concrete Practice
  • Super Insulated Slab Foundations
  • Design of Slabs on Ground Archived 2021-05-08 at the Wayback Machine

 

 

Soil with broken rock fragments overlying bedrock, Sandside Bay, Caithness, Scotland
Soil profile with bedrock labeled R

In geology, bedrock is solid rock that lies under loose material (regolith) within the crust of Earth or another terrestrial planet.

Definition

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Bedrock is the solid rock that underlies looser surface material.[1] An exposed portion of bedrock is often called an outcrop.[2] The various kinds of broken and weathered rock material, such as soil and subsoil, that may overlie the bedrock are known as regolith.[3][4]

Engineering geology

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The surface of the bedrock beneath the soil cover (regolith) is also known as rockhead in engineering geology,[5][6] and its identification by digging, drilling or geophysical methods is an important task in most civil engineering projects. Superficial deposits can be very thick, such that the bedrock lies hundreds of meters below the surface.[7]

Weathering of bedrock

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Exposed bedrock experiences weathering, which may be physical or chemical, and which alters the structure of the rock to leave it susceptible to erosion. Bedrock may also experience subsurface weathering at its upper boundary, forming saprolite.[8]

Geologic map

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A geologic map of an area will usually show the distribution of differing bedrock types, rock that would be exposed at the surface if all soil or other superficial deposits were removed. Where superficial deposits are so thick that the underlying bedrock cannot be reliably mapped, the superficial deposits will be mapped instead (for example, as alluvium).[9]

See also

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  • icon Geology portal
  • icon Geography portal
  • Maps portal
  • Minerals portal

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Jackson, Julia A., ed. (1997). "Bedrock". Glossary of geology (4th ed.). Alexandria, Virginia: American Geological Institute. ISBN 0922152349.
  2. ^ Jackson 1997, "Outcrop".
  3. ^ Jackson 1997, "Regolith".
  4. ^ Allaby, Michael (2013). "Regolith". A dictionary of geology and earth sciences (4th ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN 9780199653065.
  5. ^ Price, David George (2009). "The Basis of Engineering Geology". In de Freitas, Michael H. (ed.). Engineering Geology: Principles and Practice. Springer. p. 16. ISBN 978-3540292494.
  6. ^ McLean, A.C.; Gribble, C.D. (9 September 1985). Geology for Civil Engineers (Second ed.). CRC Press. p. 113. ISBN 978-0419160007.
  7. ^ Swinford, E. Mac (2004). "What the glaciers left behind  – the drift-thickness map of Ohio" (PDF). Ohio Geology. No. 1. Ohio Department of Natural Resources, Division of Geological Survey. pp. 1, 3–5. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2 October 2012. Retrieved 12 September 2012.
  8. ^ Lidmar-Bergström, Karna; Olsson, Siv; Olvmo, Mats (January 1997). "Palaeosurfaces and associated saprolites in southern Sweden". Geological Society, London, Special Publications. 120 (1): 95–124. Bibcode:1997GSLSP.120...95L. doi:10.1144/GSL.SP.1997.120.01.07. S2CID 129229906. Retrieved 21 April 2010.
  9. ^ "Digital Geology – Bedrock geology theme". British Geological Survey. Archived from the original on 13 December 2009. Retrieved 12 November 2009.

Further reading

[edit]
  • Rafferty, John P. "Bedrock". Encyclopædia Britannica. Archived from the original on 29 July 2019. Retrieved 1 April 2019.
  • Harris, Clay (2013). "Bedrock". In Lerner, K. Lee; Lerner, Brenda Wilmoth (eds.). The Gale Encyclopedia of Science. Vol. 1 (5th ed.). Farmington Hills, MI: Cengage Gale. pp. 515–516.
[edit]
  • Media related to Bedrock at Wikimedia Commons

 

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